Back on the Road to Lilongwe, 久々に走り始めてリロングウェ
since Lilongwe is located high elevation, about 1100m, I had to cycle mainly up. The gap from the lake was only 600m, but it was a big work out for me because I had been out of bicycle for about 2 weeks.
One night at Chezi.


Open market was really alive with shoppers.


The only guest house in this village was 500MK, about $1.2 per night!!

この村に1件だけあった宿は何と1泊500クワチャ 約120円。安かろう悪かろうで、案の定ダニに噛まれました。

From Lilongwe, I was suppose to go down to Zimbabwe via Mozambique. However, I found Mozambique embassy in Lilongwe was not issuing any visa at this moment. They told me to come back some time in next week.
I can get a single visa at the border but it will be $80, stupidly expensive.
I thought this was a sort of sign from the God to tell me not to go there.
My decision was easy; going to Zimbabwe via Zambian route.


In Lilongwe, I had an opportunity to meet people from JAICA, the Japanese government fund organisation helping developing countries.
They were on the project for Malawi's education reform.
What they do was really interesting.


As I had been on volunteer works in Ishinomaki, I felt a link to what they do for other countries. We had endless conversations until midnight. Interesting people and having some alcohols made enthusiastic night.

[2014/01/31 06:34 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Still in Lake Malawi, まだ続くマラウイ湖畔滞在
Senga Bay was pretty nice place to chill out, so I stayed for couple of nights.
Seemed there was a commercial fishery. Their fishing boats were bigger than others I've seen in Lake Malawi.

Senga Bay もなかなか面白い場所で2泊した。ここはちゃんとした漁協のような物があって、船も大きめで取れる魚の量も多いらしい。

They catch fish by lighting.

In the morning, there were many people on the beach and buying fish from fisher man. Chambo fish is one of the most expensive fish. A big one was priced 1000MK about $2.

朝砂浜には沢山の人が出ていて、仲買人が漁師から魚を買っていた。Chambo というマラウイの高級魚、大きな魚は1000クワチャ近くする。

It was a bit too expensive to buy for a dinner since Hide-san and I were planing to make fish soup. We bought a butter fish and blue fish instead.


The soup was very simple. He used only Dashi, a based soup. Then, we just dipped boiled fish on Tare, a sauce for dipping that he made with soy sauce and lemons.


We challenged for fishing as well though caught nothing.

It was last day for enjoying lake Malawi. I have to be back on the road again.

[2014/01/29 06:26 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Crossing Lake Malawi by boat, 船でマラウイ湖を南下
Heading south by boat again. ILALA, the steam boat I took from North had run to Monkey Bay, a town in south shore of the lake, by the last year, but now has run only as far as Likoma island. Now, I had to transfer another boat to the south.

Nkhata Bay からさらにフェリーを乗り継いで南下する。去年まではILALA(ここに来る時使った蒸気船)が湖南部のMonkey Bayまで週一で運行していたらしいのだけれど、今はLikomaまでしか運行していない。マラウイ湖クルーズを上からの下までしたい場合は船を乗り換える必要がある。

より大きな地図で Cycling East Africa 1/2 を表示

It's a bit complicated. From Nkhata Bay, took ILALA again and went to Likoma island. Then, transferred to another boat called Chambo going to Metangula, a town in east shore of the lake, Mozambique. Stayed overnight at Metangula and came back to Senga Bay, Malawi side in the next day.

少しややこしいのだけれど、まずNkhata Bay からまたILALAに乗りLikoma island に行く、そこでChamboというモザンビークの船に乗り換えて、モザンビークのMetamguraに行き船で1泊、翌日1日かけてマラウイのSenga Bayまで行く。下の予定表と地図を見た方が分かりやすいかも。

Chambo stops Likoma every Sunday, picks up passengers and goes to Metangula eventually.
It stops many villages along the lake and runs till Chipoka, Malawi via Senga Bay.
This photo was taken by Hide-san who took this boat with me. We were transferring to Chambo at Likoma Island.

Chamboは毎週 日曜にLikomaに停泊して客を拾ってモザンビークのMetanguraまで行く。そして翌日月曜にMetamguraから途中数箇所モザンビークの村々に停泊しながらマラウイのSenga Bayに寄り、最終的にChipokaまで運行している。この写真はILALAから小舟でChamboに乗り換える時。一緒に乗った日本人のヒデさんに撮ってもらった。

When we got to Likoma, Chambo had been already left. The operator of ILALA called Chambo, and it was turned back to Likoma.
Even though both ships are operated by same company, they don't share operations. This is African service.


We were brought to Chambo, and it left to Mozambique. This boat was quite new but really small.


The beach in Mozambique side was even prettier. Chambo moves slowly and stops many different local villages with baobab trees.


People speaks Portuguese in Mozambique. An immigration officer and operators of Chambo had been speaking in Portuguese, though They don't really speak English.


I was wondering if I needed a visa for Mozambique because Japanese citizen was required the visa to entry. However, we were just on the boat and wouldn't get off in Mozambique side. I thought we wouldn't need.
What I guessed was true, but the immigration officer at Likoma island has stamped on my passport even though I explained. It was actually not really problem when we came back to Malawi side, but I hope it doesn't cause any problem when I leave this country.


After over night at Metangula, I arrived to Senga Bay.
Chambo is normally stopped in the beach and dropped some passengers. It was really hard work to get off with a bicycle and other bags though it was really fun.

そんなこんなで1泊2日の後、Senga Bay に到着した。ChamboはMetangura以外毎回砂浜に接岸するのだけれど、荷物を降ろすのがかなり大変だった(結構面白かったけど)。腰上まで浸かって荷物を数回に分けて岸に運 ぶ。

So many people have came to the beach to see what was going on. When I was working on my luggage, more then 100 people had been looking at what I was doing. If I was not with Hide, it would be very difficult.


My Malawi lake cruise was really successful and fun, but it was a bit pricy.


Every Thursday, 木曜発着
Chilumba - Nkhata Bay; 5050MK, by ILALA

Every Sunday, 日曜発着
Nkhata Bay - Likoma; 2900MK, by ILALA

Every Sunday, 日曜発着
Likoma - Metangura; 4000MK+bicycle3150MK, by Chambo

Every Monday, 月曜発着
Metangura - Senga Bay; 4000MK+bicycle 3500MK, by Chambo

About $52 total. The cost of bicycle was surprisingly expensive.

計22600MK 約5500円。自転車代が案外高くついている。まぁ湖は堪能できたし楽しかったんで良しとします。
[2014/01/27 17:29 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Scuba Diving in Lake Malawi, マラウイ湖で淡水ダイブ
It's been a long time since I scuba dived in the last time. It will be my first over-sea-scuba diving and in fresh water.


The price of it was really expensive in Malawi; 1day dive and 1night for $100!! There are no many places in the world for the people to be able to scuba dive in fresh water with full of endemic species, so of cause I did it.


The visibility was about 10m and average depth was about 15m. There were so many fish in the water. I was very impressed.


I saw many fish that I've only seen on TV or at an aquarium shop such as the mouth breeding fish, the fish swimming upside down, catfish , fish coming out only in the night etc..


I was happy enough for these two dives. However, If the price was cheaper, I preferred to do more. It's okay.


The Dive Shop was Aqua Africa. It's only one shop in Nkhata Bay, I assumed. This British own shop was neatly fanished, but their service was neither good nor bad.

ダイブショップはNkhata Bayにあるアクアアフリカ。イギリス人オーナーの小綺麗なショップ。何か業務的にこなす所があまり好きでは無かったけれど、可もなく不可もなくといったショップだった。
[2014/01/25 06:07 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Steam Boat of Malawi, マラウイの蒸気船
This steamer named Ilala. People won't recognize if I just say "Steamer". This is definitely the most famous boat in Malawi.


She had run till Monkey bay by last year, and now only run till Likoma island via Nkhata bay.
From Likoma, people can possibly transfer different boat called "Chambo". It stops some ports in Mozambique and eventually arrives Chipoka, Malawi.

去年まではマラウイ湖最南のモンキーベイまで行っていたらしいのだけれど今はNkhata bayを経由してLikomaまでしか行かないらしい。Likomaからは違う船、これは蒸気船では無い新しい船Chamboというモザンビークの船が出ていて、モザンビークの港をいくつか経由してマラウイのChipokaまで行ってるらしい。もしChilumbaからChipokaまで行きたい場合は、Likomaで船を乗り継ぐ。詳しくは下のスケジュールで確認して下さい。

Ilala leaves Chilumba on Thursday at 6am. A guy at a ticket office in Chilumba told me to come on Wednesday night, so I got on board a day before and slept inside.


My bicycle was stored on bow of the boat. I kept my luggage and locked all together.


I slept on the deck of economy class. There were many cockroaches.
Then, next morning Ilala left Chilumba but it was an hour after 6am..


This is African boat. People carry strange things like firewood, straw etc...


They had a kitchen so I could have things during cruising. The breakfast was 800 MK, about $1.7 with 4 slices of bread and a cup of tea.

ちゃんと台所完備で飯が食える。朝はお茶と食パン4枚、800クワチャ 170円くらい。

She stopped 4 different small villages along the lake and picked up people by small boat.


In this boat, there were many crews. I didn't understand why they need such many crews.
This is Africa.


After 13 hours, she finally arrived to Nkhata bay. I have planed to Scuba Diving here.

13時間後やっと目的地のNkhata Bay に到着した。ここで久々のスキューバダイビングをする。

より大きな地図で Cycling East Africa 1/2 を表示
[2014/01/23 08:04 ] | Malawi | Comments:(1) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Days for waiting for Steamer, Chilumbaの蒸気船待ちの日々
Malawi, one of friendliest people in east and Southern Africa, it might be true. As I stay here since few days ago, I discovered that more people smiling and greeting to me. Of cause, I have been still asked for money or things but it is all the same in Africa. Without thinking about it, people were very nice to me.
Thus, I'm very enjoying for staying in this small village, Chilumba.


There were always some people doing thing on the beach; fishermen catching fish, kids running, caws drinking water etc...


Almost every time when I walked on the beach, children came and greet me.
They wore vey torn out cloth but their smile was shining enough to hide their cloth.


Small fisherman craft passed by the beach.


This is the chance to buy fish. The life is very simple here. People go to the beach to find a fisherman coming back. If there was, start negotiating.
The price is depending on the fish. Some are cheap and some not.
The one I posted photo before was not expensive; 5 for 1000MK, about $2. The one called blue fish is expensive; one for 500.
The life here is very fun.


While my stay in Chilumba, I walked to different part of village. About an hour walk on the beach and some rocky trail to the north, there was very beautiful small coves.


The water was even more clear. As I walked on the sand of the bottom, small sands ascended and shining in the water.


People where I camped, Thunduzi Beach Camp.

Thunduzi Beach Campの人達。

There were couple of loges in Chilumba but the location and price was the best here. People were very helpful.

[2014/01/22 12:00 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
I came to Chilumba, a small town in the north of the lake. The steam boat is supposed to be running from here. I went to the port and asked about the boat. There was but it runs only once a week and it was on Thursday, 4 days from when I arrived.
I was thinking how I should; give up steam boat or stay here for 4 days.

どうしようかと迷いながらもとりあえずの宿を探すと何とも良い感じなキャンプ場を発見。Thunduzi Beach Camp.

I decided to stay here because I found a nice camp ground with beach in front.


It was really good location and price was reasonable. It will be a good resting stop.


I believed I mentioned before that I used to have an aquarium at home and loved it. My aquarium was mainly for water plants, but I also liked fish.
I was loving to see the fish from all over the world at a aquarium shops or just reading a book of picture books.


Lake Tanganyika and Malawi were one of the famous place for endemic species. I've seen fish from this lake many many time at the shop or books. This is very exciting for me to visit this lake and seeing real fish swimming in the lake.


This fish, I got from fisherman is called mouth breeder, a fish taking care of her young fish in her mouth until those got big enough. This can be seen only in lake Malawi.


I cooked this fish with soy sauce. It was really tasty.


This lake supports many lives. People catch fish, wash, bath and do almost everything in this lake.


This lake is still very clear, and no much rubbish can be found on the beach. I was really impressed.

[2014/01/20 11:50 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
To Malawi, マラウイ入国まで
From Mbeya, the elevation 1800m, I needed to cross a pass 2200m. It was a quite hard work. The rain season made more miserable to cross this misty pass.


Many different vegetables have been grown here especially banana plantation was huge.


Many bananas had been sold at a local market.


I am always amazed how women carries heavy things on their head. I know a bunch of bananas is very heavy.


Normally, I had been given a banana at a restaurant but in here, at the restaurant when I had a lunch, they gave me three bananas.


Mangos were another things I've seen many times. A bucket of mangos were about $2 only.


Pineapples were 60 to 80 cents each. They can slice.


Anyway, this was on my way to the border. Then I crossed. Malawi is a visa-free country for Japanese for 30 days.
Exchanging guys in this border have one of the worst reputation in east Africa, so never exchange money with these people. They are just crooks.


I've heard that the people of Malawi was one of friendliest people on east Africa, so Malawi was one of the place I was looking forward to visiting. At the first impression, it's the same to Tanzania; still "money money give me money!!"


However, this country is definitely quieter than Tanzania. I don't see cars or motorbikes here. People mostly walk or on bicycles.


Japanese Mamachari was still helping people here.


African BBQ, I even saw in Tanzania many times.


The system is easy. Bucher men cut their meat and sell it on iron plate. One small slice is about 3 cents. This BBQ place is like social place for the men, so always some men are chatting.


Cameroon again

She has a kid in this time.
She came crumbling on my arm.


At a market in Kalonga. Many fish from lake Malawi have been sold.


This lake cannot been seen much from the road. The view is normally like this photo.


It's nice but a bit boring. Kids are always like to find random tourist. I was still called Muzumgu. Hello hello Muzungu !! and big smiling and waving hands. This is good part but once they started saying "Money!!". It's a bit frustrating but this is African.

車が通らないから楽しいちゃ楽しいけど正直飽きますね。道端は民家が沢山あって、ひっきりなしに子供が声をかけて来ます。ムズングー!ハローハロー !までなら気持ち良いのだけれど、ギブミーマネーが入るとげんなり。まぁそれもアフリカなんで仕方ないんですが。
[2014/01/18 21:07 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
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