The day flying back
ついにこの日がやって来た。





Richard and Betth gave me so much hospitalities during my stay in Cape Town, not only for comfortable cottage many other things. I feel I gain some weight.

ケープタウンで世話になったリチャードとベスには、コテージを提供してもらった以外にも感謝しきれないほど良くしてもらった。おかげで体重は数キロ増えた感がある。



The last 500g steak in Africa with Richard and Betth.






In Doha, Qatar, I had a 20 hours stopover. It was really good. I was saying that because I got so much benefits from international rule; free hotel and meals. I've hard that you would get free accommodation, etc if you had over 8 hours transit according to international flight rule.
Anyway, I could go outside without visas and stay at a business hotel with buffet for 3 meals.

カタールで20時間のストップオーバー。国際空港法？かなにかで、8時間以上の待ち時間があると無料でホテルなんかを手配してもらえるらしく、ドーハでビジネスホテルを手配してもらった。この際、ビザは無料でホテル滞在中の食事も全て込み。朝から晩までブュッフェで帰国前からさらに肥えたきがする。






Now, waiting for getting on board. Here, I'm coming, Japan !!!!

そして現在、成田行きの飛行機待ち。待ってろ日本！ 俺が帰るぞ！

As many people who had gone to table mountain saying, it was beautiful place.

テーブルマウンテンは御多分に洩れず素晴らしい場所だった。






From the top, we got very panoramic view, north to Cederberg where I came through and south to cape peninsula.

頂上からは通って来たCederbergやケープ半島が一望できる。





When I took a ferry from Spain to Africa, the Atlas Mountains were overlooked from the ferry. I remembered I was filled with excitement.

スペインからアフリカ大陸に渡った時、フェリーの中からアトラス山脈が良く見えた。あの時、近付いて来るアフリカ大陸に武者震いしたのを思い出す。


Now, I am looking at mountains in the north. The sun goes up in the north as well. I've come very far away from home.

今はテーブルマウンテンから北方に連なる山々を見ている。あの時南に登った太陽は、今は北側に登っている。随分遠くまで来た。





The central Cape Town.
ケープタウン市街地


It doesn't look Africa as I came from north. The show windows were filled up with fancy things, and seemed there were not as much rubbish Chinese and Indian goods as I've seen in other African nations.

この街は他のアフリカ諸国から来ると別世界だ。通りのショーケースには綺麗な品物が並んでいて、中国やインド製の粗悪品以外をこれだけ見るのは久々だ。







Waterfront
ウォーターフロント




I took the Robben Island tour one day. This island had been used as a political prison until recently.
The late, Mr. Mandela had been also exiled in this island.

ここからはRobben islandツアーに参加した。ここはかつて政治犯の刑務所として使われていて、今は亡きマンデラ氏も収監されていた。









The next day of visiting the prison was the Election Day.
Mr. Mandela became a president after he was released. He had been making his effort for reconciliation of people and improving the economy.

そんな翌日の今日は南アフリカの総選挙。マンデラ氏が大統領になり、民族間の和解、経済成長を掲げてここまで来た南アフリカ。




However, the reality of the people, especially among black that covered majority of South African, is this as you see on this photo. I took this photo when I was cycling towered the cape point. It was huge township in suburb of Cape Town.

ただ、大多数を占める黒人の現状はこうだ。自転車で走ると特に見えるその国の現状。郊外には大規模なタウンシップが広がり、掘っ建て小屋で何人もの人が生活を共にしている。




Many people still live in bad condition; a lot of trash and smell like spoiling. South Africa is supposed to be the most advanced nation in Africa, but as long as I've seen in township, the life is still harsh.

ゴミが散らばり、悪臭が立ち込める。アフリカの最先を行く南アフリカ、そのはずがタウンシップ内の生活は悲惨にしか見えない。




Apartheid was over, but for those who live in township, nothing has been changed after. This is hidden situation of South Africa. For my opinion, there are a lot of things they have to work on rather than economics growth.

彼等にとっては何も変わっていないのだろう。市街地やウォーターフロントで見たケープタウンは表の顔。影ではまだまだ貧困に苦しむ人が沢山いる。経済成長もそうだけれど、この国の足元には改善もしくは改革しないといけない部分が多々あるように思える。

This is my life in Cape Town. I had been camping in the bush for last few month but now staying a clean and nice cottage. What a change my life is.

ついこの間まで野宿生活だった私、今はケープタウン郊外のチョー綺麗なコテージに滞在している。


South African couple, Richard and Beth kindly provided me this place. I was hooked up with them by my Italian friend. They are also cyclists and have experience crossing Africa by tandem bicycle before.

この場所を提供してくれたのは、南アフリカのカップル、リチャードとベス。イタリアの友人が紹介してくれて繋がる事が出来た。彼等もサイクリストで3年前にタンデム自転車でイギリスから南アフリカまで走った経験の持ち主。




They are so nice to me. When I arrived to their place, They had already prepared a champagne.

本当良くしてもらっていて、感謝しきれない。5月1日に着いた日にはシャンパンが用意されていて真っ先に乾杯




Then, in the evening, they brought me a food market. I was given many congratulations by people there. Even the legendary South African rugby player, Chester Williams came to me and asked a photo with him.
It was a very nice night.

夜はフードマーケットに行き、大勢にお祝いの言葉を頂いた。
自分はラグビーの事は全く知らないのだけれど、南アフリカのラグビープレイヤーで、スーパースターらしい Chester Williams から写真を一緒に撮ってくれなんてお願いされたりして素晴らしいゴールの夜だった。

At 8am, on 1st of May, The Cape of Good Hope
5月1日午前8時、喜望峰到着





Total: 944days and 48600km (30,300 miles)

944日、2年7ヶ月
総走行距離 48600km



The mark of the cape of good hope had been stayed there quietly.

喜望峰は思った以上にこじんまりとしていた。




There were only sound of waves crashing on the rocks and the wind from south east at the cape.

岩だらけのビーチに波がバサ～っと打ち寄せる音と、南東からの強めの風が吹き付ける音の中にポツリとあった標識。




The stones laid on the ground were polished by many many people walking on everyday.
However, it was so quiet in the early morning. Quiet enough to think of the end.
How many cyclists had finished their journey in this point.

地面の敷石は通る人の数ゆえツルツルになっていた。日中は観光バスも押し寄せる場所。朝の誰もいない喜望峰は感慨に浸るのに十分な静けさがあった。ここで何人の自転車旅人が旅を終えたのだろうか。




However, to be honest, at this point, I didn't feel I crossed the finish line. It was just like part of my journey.

ただ正直、この時点でここがゴールなんて全然考えられなかった。全く日々の走行過程、旅の一部だった。







After visiting the cape point, I came down to the parking place where I left my bicycle. I felt I really didn't want to cycle back to the Cape Town. It might be the point I felt the end of journey.

喜望峰とケープポイントを経て、さぁケープタウンに走り初めようかとケープポイントの駐車場に置いてあった自転車に戻った時、異常に走るのが面倒に感じて始めて「終わった」のを感じた。ここまで喜望峰を目指して南下して来たのに、北上するのは例え60kmでもすごく面倒に思えた。




I started cycling back to Cape Town. It was like cooling off proses for my long distance journey. This cycle, from the cape point to Cape Town, was feeling a bit different from normal routine cycle; I didn't need to think about the camping spot, food stocks, water etc....
It was totally free of stress.

でもやっぱり走る。感覚的には車のエンジンをクーリングする感じか。もうこの先の走行日程を考えたり、野宿場所の心配、食料調達の事、いつも走りながら考えていた事をもう考えなくて良い。何だが走りが軽くなったような気がした。





It was the end.
あ～終わった～

April, 29, the cape of good hope has been on visible.

4月29日、とうとう喜望峰が視界に入って来た。



I was coming from east, and it was on my left hand side. The left side of the road was dropped to the ocean. There were many sea lions jumping.

湾を挟んて東側の半島から、左手にケープポイントを見ながら進んだ。断崖の下には海が広がっていて、アザラシがジャンプするのが良く見てわかる。




In Boulders beach, I saw cape penguins.

ボルダーズビーチではケープペンギンも見れた。岩場を歩く姿には癒された。






Where I was was only about 50km away of the distance in a straight line. I have to cycle all the way along the ocean.
I will try to get to the cape point in the early morning of tomorrow.

直線距離なら喜望峰まで50kmも無いくらいなのだけれど、海岸沿いにグルリと周って喜望峰を攻略する。アタックは明日早朝に決めた。5月1日の日の出、なかなかきりが良い

より大きな地図で Cycling East Africa 2/2 を表示




Tonight is the last bush camp. This is really the last. I wonder how many times I pitched my tent since the beginning. I feel a bit sad for bush camping. It has been giving me always the opportunity of the silentness and observing sparkling stars.
On the other hand, I am very happy to be able to sleep on the bed. I have really been sleeping in the tent since Zambia for everyday, it's really everyday.

今夜は喜望峰16km手前で野宿だ。これが本当に最後の野宿になる。ここまで何回テントを広げただろうか。この静けさと、満点の星空が支配する空間も今日が最後かと思うと少し寂しい。
一方で、やっと布団で眠られる日々が続く喜びもある。



I came through some surrounding area of the Cape Town today. It was busy and stressful. Im camping now only 16km away from the cape point. Its not very far from the town.
My camp spot of tonight is very calm and quiet. I hear a sound of small stream. Some time, I even hear the sound from baboons. This is really the last bush night.
For tomorrow, I will wake up really early.

雑踏の中を今日走って来たのが嘘のように今は静まり返っている。近くには綺麗な小川が流れていて、チョロチョロという音がする。時々バブーンが山の中で叫ぶのが聞こえる。それもこれも今夜が最後、明日は早いぞ。

After cycling through Namibia; on the gravel for 800km, I still have energy to go on a dart road again.
I feel I have to see the beauty of nature. It doesn't matter how long I have to cycle on bad road.

あれだけナミビアで未舗装を走ったのにこりない私。それでも景色が良いなら行くしかない。Cederberg Wilderness Area






It was amazing scenery though the road was a bad condition. There were many plants I've never seen.

道が凄まじく悪い以外は文句なし。見た事の無い花や草が沢山生えていた。








This is Rooibos plants in wild. Those used to be used by San-Bushman as medical plants. Now, many products of this have been exported to Japan.

これがルイボス茶の原料になる草。サン族が薬草として飲んでいたそうだ。



Seemed Hiking was one of the good options to enjoy this area. There were plenty of trekking routes.

トレッキングルートも整備されていて、それ目的でも十分面白そうな場所。バランシングロックや、滝まで行くルートなんか面白そうだった。




According to a tourist information, there are many bushman's rock arts left in this region. However, looked its impossible to find by myself unless I had a guide because there were no signs.

観光案内曰く、この辺りの岩場にはサン族の岩絵が沢山残されているそうな。ただ、目印とか全く無いので、ガイド無しでは見付けるのはまず無理でしょう。




It was easy to manage the water. There were some places where fresh and cold water running.

そのまま飲める美味しい水もいろんな場所で流れていた。冷えてて美味しい。




In a reservoir, many water plants have grown on the bottom. I felt like observing a big nature aquarium tank from the top.

ため池には水草がビッシリ生えていて、巨大アクアリウム水槽を上から見ている感じだった。




As I passed over the mountain region, the Wine Land had been appeared. This region is the main wine producing area in South Africa, and the wine from here has been exported for all over the world.

この山岳地帯を降りると、ワインランド。この地域が南アフリカワインの中心的な場所で、ここから世界各国に輸出されているそうな。




Another pass after Ceres
Ceresからの峠道



The vineyards were all over this place. The history of wine making in South Africa is actually long. It's even longer than America and Australia.
The quality of it is also recognized by several prizes.

永遠と葡萄畑が続く。南アフリカのワイン生産は実はアメリカやオーストラリアよりも古い。
品質も賞なんかを取っているくらいなので、良い物が育っているのだろう。




Seemed the vintage of this year has been all done. The most of vineyards looked quiet. I wondered how the vintage was in this year.
I wished I had someone going wine tasting with. Since I don't want to drink wine alone, I just focused on cycling.
Perhaps, I should cerebrate my goal in Cape Town by taking some sparkling South African wine.

もう葡萄の収穫は終わった後で、どこの畑も静まり返っていた。今年の出来栄えはどうなのだろうか。ワインテイスティングもしたいのだけれど、ワインを1人で飲みたくは無いので今は我慢。ケープタウンに着いたら記念にスパークリングワインでも頂こうかな。

Now, I'm in Clanwilliam, an old little town 230km north from Cape Town.

今、ケープタウン北230km、Clanwilliam という古い小さな町に滞在中。


It's like a country town in Australia.

小さな町 Clanwilliam。オーストラリアの地方みたいな雰囲気。




The Rooibos tea factory.
ルイボス茶の工場





From this point, I am getting into an area where more interesting places are, so I stopped by this town to get some informations. Also, I felt I had to have some rest.
The campground was very expensive; 130R about $13 even though it was not very clean.

この辺りからは見所が満載なので、情報収集をするのと、疲れたんで1日オフ日を取った。唯一のキャンプ場は130R, 約1300円、質のわりにクソ高い。この所キャンプ場に恵まれない。



However, I met a French cyclist, Iva here. He was also taking a day off for on his way north. We had a good conversation, and I got some good informations from him.
I haven't met many cyclists in Africa, and even for those I've met, it was almost always on my way. It was good meeting him.

ただ、このキャンプ場ではフランス人サイクリストのイバに会って、いろいろと情報を貰えたので良し。いろんな場所を走ってる人で、久々に楽しいサイクリスト談義で盛り上がった。



From this town, I will go a bit of inland and cycle through some nature reserve area. Then try to get to the cape of good hope from east. It was also suggested by Iva. he said it was so beautiful, so I'm looking forward to seeing there.
I will be arriving to the cape in 6 days; around the first of May.

この後は内陸の自然保護区的な山を走りながらケープタウンの東側から喜望峰を目指す。南アをじっくり走ったイバも絶賛していたので楽しみです。喜望峰到着は6日～7日後予定。

I made the last border crossing. It was filling with deep emotion. Now, heading to the end of end, the cape of good hope.

南アフリカ国境を越える。これがこの旅最後の国、感慨深いものがある。ここから目指すは地の果ての果て、喜望峰。



I wished there was a sign something like "Welcome to the End of Earth". There was not even "Welcome to South Africa". It was a bit disappointing.
It was easy border crossing; no hassle at all. Officers and police men were friendly. It made me expecting of good country.

この国境に架かる橋に「Welcome to the End of Earth」なんて気の利いた文言でもあれば、1発写真に収めたかったけれど、「Welcome to South Africa」すら無かったので、いつものごとく出入国をチャッチャと済ませた。イミグレの人や警察はすごく感じが良くて、思わず良い国を期待してしまう。



On my way, many drivers, white and black both honked me for greeting. Since i was a bit nervous from the image of apartheid, those greeting helped me to relax.

白人も黒人も、車で通り過ぎ際に"ププー"と手を振ってくれたりする。アパルトヘイトのイメージが強くて、少し身構えていただけに、すこしホッとさせてくれる。




However, I've started seeing the shadow side of South Africa. It was remaining of apartheid. In the almost all village and towns, there were area called township where many huts were. Most of people who lives there were black. The life of white here looked similar to the most of western countries.

ただ、これまでの国以上に所得の差が目で見てはっきりとわかるようになった。まず。どんな小さな町にもタウンシップといって黒人達が住んでいる小さな家の密集地があって、現地の白人は郊外、もしくは町中で欧米のそれと変わりない生活をしているように見える。






It doesn't do anything to my journey but not fun to see.

特にそれで何か自分に危害があるという事は無いけれど、見ていて気持ち良いもんでは無い。
これもアパルトヘイトの残した負の面影なんだろう。




North west part of South Africa is called Namaqualand.

南アフリカの北西部はナマクアランドと呼ばれていて、オレンジ川沿いのようにゴツゴツの岩山が続いている。



This land looked all brown and dry now, but I've hard that it would be totally changed about August. A lot of flowers started blooming in that time of year and making the land sparkling color. I hope I can see it sometime in the future.

今は正に荒野だけれど、これが8月くらいになると、花畑になるそうだ。いつかその変化を見てみたいもんだ。



In the first decent town Springbok, I saw the first sign with "Cape Town". It's only 560km away!!

南ア入国後、最初の大きな町Springbokでは遂に「Cape Town」の標識も出て来た。もう560kmしか無い。東京から宮城くらいの距離か。




It was like nothing cycling for 20km. 30km, and 40km for normal days compared to the distance I've covered so far. However, those small distance NOW eliminates the such a small distance of Cape Town, 560km in day by day. I feel a bit emotional for every pedaling I do these days.
I feel I want to make the finish line as soon as possible and go home, but on the other hand, I feel sad for finishing.

数万キロの過程の中で、20km、30km、40km進む事なんて全く大した距離じゃなかった。ただ、今は違う。20km進むとゴールまで540km、30km進めばあと530km。毎日、ペダルを踏み続ける分だけゴールまでの距離が縮まって行くのをすごく感じる。早くゴールしてしまいたい気持ちもある反面、勿体無くも感じてしまう。

より大きな地図で Cycling East Africa 2/2 を表示

My Japanese brother, he is like my brother, told me "Enjoy your journey BY THE END".
It is really true. Of cause I want to go back but am still now on my journey. As long as I'm on my journey, I should enjoy every single time until the last day. I said my self and kept pedaling.

この前、日本の兄貴分から「旅を最後まで楽しめ」と言われた。確かにそうだと思った。日本の事を考え過ぎると今を楽しめなくなる気がしていた。ケープタウンに着くまで、いくつも興味深い場所がある。最後の最後まで楽しもう。