After passing Daxueshan pass, the province changed to Sichuan. In this area called Ganze, people (Tibetian) are wearing different cloth and live different house from Decheng, Tibetern area in Yunnan.

大雪山を越えると四川省。この辺はガンゼチベット族(カム)の居住区で、家の形や民族衣装もデチェンとは違っている。












I cycled to Xiangcheng today. There were a couple of police check points in 40km, and I got my passport checked in Xiangcheng also. In Xiangcheng, there were military walking along the main street, and police cars going by. It's very intense mood.

この日は多城まで走ったが、公安の検問が40kmの間に2箇所、多城に入ってからも1度パスポートチェックをされた。市内は軍隊の隊列がメインストリートを行き来してるし、公安の車が何台もウロウロしてるし、物々しい雰囲気。











Then Bad news came to me.
そして悪い事。









Just right before I got into the town, three guys called me to come. Then they told me bad news.
街に着く直前、3人組の男性に声をかけられ、愕然とさせられる情報を聞かされる。








The road going to Litang was broken in many sections due to heavy snow and landslide.


理塘への道路が雪と土砂崩れで寸断されているらしい。









At first, I thought these guys were police men and tried me not to go further. But after I checked whether it's true or not by asking local people, I realized it was true.
最初は自分を先に進ませない為の策略かと疑ったが、街の人何人かに聞いてみても同じ答えだった。







Okay, I should go back......
仕方がない、引き返す・・・


no way to give up.
わけがない。







I can go on even it is dirt road.
道があれば自転車は進めるんです。

The day for climbing Daxueshan Pass. it was sunny.
大雪山越え当日、快晴。


Very very very nice ride.
最高ーーーに綺麗























But but but......
が、が、が、


The good day won't last longer.
良い事は長くは続かない。


Since the road was super bumpy , my first camera was broken.
あまりの悪路の振動に耐えきれず、第一カメラが((((；ﾟДﾟ)))))))

It's totally knockout.
完全にノックアウト(T_T)


Then, my second camera was also broken next....
そして、さらに、第二カメラまで((((；ﾟДﾟ)))))))


I bought the "Tough" Olympus camera that was supposed to be shock proof...
第二カメラは衝撃に強いオリンパスのタフだったのに。。。


It's like a boxer almost knockout so move some times.
正にボコボコにされボクサーのごとくタフはタフなりに、多少は動くみたい。


Today was very nice day for cycling but very bad day also. It's like 1 + (-1) = 0
良い日と悪い事で、今日はプラマイゼロだね。


Bad thing is still coming...
悪い事はさらに続く。。

An information I got says Chinese GV restricted Tibetan area, West of Sichuan and South of Chinkai province, in this year.

現在、チベット文化圏(四川省東部、青海省南部)への外国人の入域は規制されているという情報。










In tourist center in Shangri La, all tours for Sichuan had been canceled.

シャングリラのツーリストセンターでも、四川省へのツアーは全て中止になっていた。









But, I have a dead line of my china visa and those area were what i was really looking forward to cycling, so i decided to take off.

でもビザの期間もあるし、この規制区内こそ、ずっと走るのを楽しみにしてた場所。だから進む事にした。









Actually, I'm already Tibet area called Decheng but didn't have any trouble with police men so far.

それでもデチェンチベット族自治区では検問とどこでも遭遇してない。







I think I most likely face on police check point somewhere on the way. I need to move very carefully because cyclists are very conspicuous.

この先多分どっかで遭遇するはずだから、気をつけて進まないと。何せ自転車は目立ちすぎる。






Anyway, I'm in day 2 since I left Shangri La.

そんなこんなでシャングリラを出発し、四川省の理塘へ向かい初めて2日目。









At the first day, I had an opportunity to stay at Tibetian family in a village 40km from Shangri La.

初日はシャングリラから40キロ北の村で、チベタン家族の御宅に泊めてもらえる事ができた。







They had a big house. I relaxed in sunshine, had a good conversation with grandma which we both didn't understand, and they gave me a very nice goat milk. I had a good day.

デカイ屋敷で日向ぼっこしながらお婆さんと意味がわからないが会話をしたり、暖炉で温まりながら羊のミルクをご馳走になったり、とても良い一時を過ごした。










































In second day, it was first time for me to pass a pass of 4000m upper sea level. It's very cold.

2日目は小雪山峠で初の4000m越え。寒かった～











When sun came out, it's nice and warm but if not, very very cold.

日差しが出れば丁度良いくらいだけど、陰ると本当寒い。








After passed the last corner, the view I saw forgetting me feeling cold. I spent one hour in cold and windy.

それでも、最後の坂を上りきると、寒さも忘れるくらいの絶景。風がビュンビュン吹いているのに、そこで1時間も過ごした。





























There were rocky cliffs more than 5000m surrounded a valley. This remind me Yosemite N.P.

5000m以上の岩山が連なっていて、カリフォルニアのヨセミテ国立公園を思い出させる光景。









For tomorrow, Daxueshan pass is on my way.....will be cold again.....

明日は大雪山峠。また寒いな～

I am now in Shangri La. I expected there were many foreigners but don't see…
今日シャングリラに到着。外国人が多いかと思ってたが、全然見当たらない。



I cycled about 3000m on the way here and felt very cold. I a bit worry about cycling over 4000m on my way.
ここ2日、標高3000m前後を走って本当に寒い。4000m越えたらどうなるんだろ。











The road from north where I took on the way to Shangri La.
シャングリラに向う途中。


Photo Album ↓

Yunnan (China)

After passing a mountain from 錐西 city which was in part of Risu tribe area, the place changed to the area to Tibetan.
錐西はリス族のエリアだったが、この街を通り過ぎて山をシャングリラ方向に越えると、チベット族エリア。


Tibetan called Chukei lives in this area. I saw women wearing red and blue cloth, and hat and cloth called Talucho hungging up many places.
この辺りはチュウケイチベット族の生活の場で、赤と青の布を頭に巻いている女性や、通る村々でタルチョを良く見かける。





In north west of Yunnan, there are 3 major river; Mekong, Jinsha, Nujiang, divided by the huge mountain ranges. This area is one of the world heritage site called "Three Parallel Rivers of Yunnan Protected Areas".
雲南省北西部は、メコン川、金沙江、怒江、3つの大河が山を隔てて流れていて、"雲南保護区の三江並流"として世界遺産にも指定されている。



I cycled along Jinsha river (Yangtze river). I think in this area many Tibetian live because the villages along the way were almost all Tibetian village.
シャングリラには金沙江(長江上流)沿いに進んだ。通る村々はチベタン村が多い気がした。


The road was snaking along a huge valley and the view was absolutely gorgeous. I super recommend this road.
道は深い谷をクネクネ進む絶景路。是非お勧めの道路。



I don't know the elevation of this area but it was very cold when I passed mountains.
標高はわからないが、山越えは寒かった。


Today, I stayed in a Tibetan village, called Tacheng.
今日は塔城というチベタンの村で1泊。

I went back the same way. Of caurse it was hard to go up the stone paved road, but I was still excited seeing the view on the way back.
嫌々言いながらも、来た道を戻った。石畳を登るのは辛かったが、2度目も景色は感動的だった。


However, I got a problem again. I lost a screw on my rear rack due to heavy vibration.
しかし、またもやハプニング。悪路の振動でリアラックとフレームを固定するネジ1箇所が、緩んで無くなっている事に気付く。


Fortunately, I carried extra screws, so it was okay. But didn't have a small thing that goes between frame and rack, so I used some nuts as substitution. Hope nothing wrong for the future.
まあまあ、こんな事もあろうかとネジの予備は持ち歩いていたんで事泣を得たが、フレームとラックの間に噛ませるパーツは無いんで、ナットを5コくらい噛ませて代用。何も問題なけりゃ良いんだが。。


I should check screws on my bike once awhile.
次からはネジの緩みをチェックするのは忘れないようにしないと。


In that day, I stopped at a guest house on the way to 錐西 city. In china, there are many guest houses for Truck drivers, so those are also very sweatable for cyclists.
この日は錐西に向う途中の安宿にチェックイン。中国はトラックドライバーが仮眠で使うような安宿が良くあってサイクリストには丁度良い。


In there, Mr. Fu, the owner of the guest house invited me a dinner. I was treated, by a man who lives in a small village on the way, yesterday also. I've been treated by people last couple of days.
ここでは宿主の福さんに夜食をご馳走になった。昨日も昼飯を道中出会った村人、トゥオさんにご馳走になったりして、おごられ続き。

Next day, headed Shangri La and passed by 錐西 city.
翌日、比較的大きな錐西を通り過ぎ、シャングリラ方向へ向かった。


But, a bad thing happened again. I went the wrong way for 20km so needed going up same way...
しかーし、またもや嫌な事が。。。道を20キロ間違えてしまい、下った道を登る羽目に。


For the last 3 days, I felt kindness of people but couldn't move forward much.
いやいや、この3日間人に優しくされる日々でもあったが、なかなか前に進まない。

The state road, S311 was nice paved road. I took it to Jiancuang city and then took a local road to the north until Hexi city.
綺麗に舗装されたばかりの省道(S311)を老君山まで進み、そこから県道を北に進み河西へ。


From this town, took another local road going west and headed 錐登 city.
河西からさらに西に向う県道を使い、錐登へ向かった。


The view so far was very very nice but the view from this road was absolutely breathtaking.
今までの道も景色は最高だったが、この道から眺める景色はすごかった。



The road was built from many rocks, stone paving, and it goes 50km in high elevation. I could cycle with seeing 4000m class mountains and a river flowing way below where I was.
ボコボコ石畳の道が崖っぷちを50キロ伸びていて、4000メートル級の山々と、狭い谷底を流れる河をはるか下に見ながら進む。



I wondered how much time needed to be a bottom of valley if I fell off.
滑落したら下まで落ちるのに何秒掛かるんだろ？



I took all day to cross this area and finally reached to my dear Mekong river.
この道を一日かけて越へ、やっと愛しきメコン川と再開。





The Mekong in here became very narrow but the water flowing was still massive. This river goes until a desert in the central China.
ここで見るメコン川は明らかに川幅が狭かった。でもまだまだ水量は多い。メコン川はこの先、中国内陸部の砂漠地帯まで続いている。長いなメコン川。


From here, headed north.
ここからメコン川を北上開始。


My destination today was 錐登 city. It looked a new high way has been started constructing, so I took a road under construction.
今日の予定は錐登で1泊。現在、チベット方向に伸びている新公路が建築中で、建築途中の道を進んだ。



But
が


But
が


But
が


I got a big landslide on the way. No way to pass by because this was absolutely massive landslide.
何と錐登到着5キロ手前、大規模崖崩れに道を阻まれる。どう見ても通れない程、激しく崩れている。



I couldn't move for awhile.
その場で身動き取れず。


I communicated with the workers there in writing. They told me that the construction on the way were very very difficult due to steep valley and landslide. There are many sections stopped construction.
しばらく工事関係者と筆談し情報収集したが、ここから先は崖崩れが多く工事も困難を極めているらしい。部分部分で工事も中断してるみたい。



Hnnnn, I don't want to go back the same bumpy road; this road was stone paved so very difficult to go up...
いやいや、今日の道を戻るのか～ 考えるのも嫌になる悪路。しかも悪路は悪路でも石畳の悪路は本当走り辛い。



At that time, it was 6:30pm and a town where some guesthouse were 20km away including upping hills.
現在時刻6時半、近隣には宿無し、最寄りの街は20キロ南で山越え。



So, I did bush-camp by a bunk of Mekong river.
という状況なんで、今日はメコン川の畔で野宿。

I realized that total running distance had been passed 10,000km.
サイクルコンピュータのトータル走行距離見たら、10,000kmを越えてるのに気付いた。


In this cerebration, I'm in 旬南, a small town 100km north from Dali.
そんな今日は大理から北に100キロ走った旬南という小さな街。



Looks getting closer to the sky. The view on the way was like a postcard. The contrast of mountains and clouds made me taking a lot of photos.
ここまで来ると何となく空が近くなってきたような気がする。ポストカードにありそうな雄大な景色と雲のコントラストに写真を撮るのも楽しくなる。





Next day, I took a road going west and am heading Mekong river.
翌日からは進路を西にとり、メコン川を目指す。


The mountain located the border of Dali state and Dokou state, called "Mt. Seppou" was so beautiful.
大理州と怒江州の境にある雪邦山は本当綺麗な山だった。

About 4000m mountains started appearing on my way.
ついに4000メートル級の山々が見えて参りました。


Now, I'm resting in Dali for couple of days.
今、大理で2日程滞在中。



Since this is a city for Phe tribe, there were many wearing traditional tribal cloth walking.
ペー族の都という事もあり、ペー族の民族衣装を着て歩いている人を沢山見かける。


At the day of arrival, I met a chinese cyclist, Jason, in a small restaurant.
ここに着いた当日、人民食堂で中国サイクリストのジェーソンと会った。



He cycled from Australia and is on the way back to his home town nearby shanghai.
彼はオーストラリアから北上してきて、上海近郊の地元へ帰る途中らしい。


In Dali, I spent most of time with him.
大理では彼と飯を食べたり、街を歩いたりして久々の休息を過ごした。


There are 19 big mountains; those are about 4000m, in west, so it's very nice view of those snowy mountains from this old town.
この街の西側には4000メートル級の雪を被った山々が19峰もあり、街からの眺めが本当綺麗。



The elevation here is about 2000m and temperature during day time is about 20℃. It must be much colder on my way because i need to cycle for awhile in hight elevation area; about 4000m, next few weeks.
大理は海抜2000メートルにあって、今の時期日中で20度前後。この先標高4000メートル前後をしばらく進むから、かなり寒いと思う。



So that, I took a city bus to Xiaguan to buy some warm cloth in second day off.
という事で、休息2日目には大理からバスで下関の街に厚手のインナーや、グローブを買い出しに行った。


Xiaguan is a big city, and there was even Wall-Mart.
下関は高層ビルが立ち並んでいる大都会で、ウォルマートなんかもある。


I bought most of them in the center market; thick inner pants, top and gloves for skiing. Those cost about $20 total.
買い出しは中央市場近辺で一通り揃った。厚手のインナー上下とスキー用グローブ、しめて120元(1元＝13円)


In this market, there was a big meet area that was about as big as couple of futsal fields. It's amazing view that many Chinese cutting big chunk of meets by big chinese
knives.
この市場にはフットサルコート2面分くらいの肉エリアがあって、肉屋がビッシリ。デカイ肉の塊を何人もの人民が中華包丁でバッサバッサ切っている光景は凄まじかった。



This is how I spend my resting days in Dali. So, from tomorrow, I will be heading north. I won't go Shangri La directory and will cycle along the Mekong river until Decheng, a town nearby the border of Tibet.
こんな感じで休息日を過ごし、明日から北上。シャングリラには直接向かわず、メコン川を北上し、チベット自治区手前の街デチェンまで向かいます。

Seems it's getting spring in Yunnan. There were plum trees blooming along the road. During day time, strong sun light makes me sweat a lot.
雲南省にも春が来ているようです。道路脇に梅の花がちらほら。日中は汗だくになるくらい日差しが強い。



Passed a pass after going through 雲具. There was Mekong river flowing a bottom of a deep valley.
雲具を過ぎてから峠を越えた谷底に再びメコンの姿を拝む。



In this valley, I saw women who wear cloth like women in Indonesia and Malaysia use.
この谷ではインドネシアやマレーシア女性がするような布を頭からかぶっている女性を良く見た。


Wonder what tribe they belong to...
何族なんだか凄く気になる。。

Yunnan province is very interesting place and has a lot of deep valleys.
雲南は谷も深けりゃ奥も深い。



Cycling up for 20km and cycle down 20km. I can't remember how many mountains I passed so far.
20キロ前後登り、20キロ下る。毎日毎日、いくつ山を越えてるかわからない。


The interesting thing is that there were different tribes in each valley.
面白いのは、どうやら谷によって違う民族がいる事。


I found difference by what they put as hat; colorful turban, hat with a lot of shinny decoration, some have like a hat that look like cover that people wear when they dye their hair.
だいたい被り物でわかる。カラフルな生地のターバンみたいのや、一見髪を染める時のカバーみたいなの、沢山キラキラのジャラジャラ着けているの等いろいろ。


I assume that such deep valleys created tribal borders.
おそらく谷が深いゆえ、昔からこれが民族の境界線だったんだろう。


I wish I can speak more mandarin so can get more communicated with those people. This is my regret now.
もっと中国語が喋ることができれば、彼等とも会話できるのに。今更悔やんでます。


Yunnan is awesome!!
雲南省最高！

Mainly stay on G214 road and keep heading north.
現在G214をひたすら北に進んでます。


On the way, I got stopped at police check twice. There was nothing wrong on my passport so they let me go. It's still southern Yunnan. I bit worry on the way north where many issues between Chinese GV and Tibetan are.
途中、2度公安に止められてパスポートチェックされたりなんかしたけど問題なし。まだ雲南省の南なのにね。この先が思いやられる。


There was very nice road 50km north and south of Shuangjiang. The road goes a deep valley of Mejiang river. I was thinking how they built this road while cycling because cliffs along the way were very steep.
双江の前後50kmはかなり景色良かった。ひたすら深い谷底を流れる黒江川沿いに進む道。どうやってこの道敷いたんだろって関心しながら走った。



Seemed there were a lot of land slide. I think this road is sometime closed during rain season.
土砂崩れが多いみたいで、至る所で道を直してたから、雨季は通行止めが多いんじゃないかな。

The mountains in southern Yunnan are beautiful. Those remind me the mountains in Chichibu where I live.
雲南省南部は山が綺麗だ～。地元の秩父の山を思い出す。





Crossing Mekong river again in Jinghon.
メコンをジンホンで再び渡る。



There are many different tribes in this area, so I saw people walking with tribal costume in some local towns.
民族色も濃いようで、地方じゃ民族衣装を着て歩いている人もちらほら。今はタイ族自治区なんで・・・多分タイ族？


You can get nice bed for about 50 gen($7). Of cause, food is delicious and cheep.
宿は50元出せば、かなり綺麗な宿に泊まれるし、飯も美味くて安い。


For a road, the road I take is not as beautiful as between Boten and Jinghon but nice paved road. I'm glad there was not any tunnels since Jinghon.
道路はボーテン～ジンホン間程は良くないけど、綺麗な舗装路。トンネルがなくて嬉しい。ジンホンまでのハイウェイはトンネルが多くて怖かった。


It's no doubt a lot of hills on the way but mostly those are gentle slope.
坂は思っていた通り。多い。急じゃないけど。


Now, I'm in Ranchan, a town that is not far to Burma border.
今はランチャン。ミャンマーの国境からそんなに遠くない。



I heard that in Amud area, Sichuan where I am supposed to go through, there was a big problem between Tibetan monks and Police. Not good...
何か四川省のアムド辺りの状況が良くないね。通る予定なんだけどどうだろ。

The atmosphere was totally changed after this border.
ラオス →中国 の国境越えほど劇的に雰囲気が変わる国境は今までなかった。


In Lao side, it's typical country village of south east Asia, livestocks crossing and kids playing by a road.
ラオス側は家畜が道路を横切り、子供達が道端で遊んでたりする、良くある東南アジアの農村地帯。



In right before the border, there were big buildings appeared but seemed those haven't been used. They were just there.
国境手前に差し掛かると、でかいホテルが山の中に忽然と現れる。でも建っているだけで、使われていないようだった。


The Lao immigration was snugly. The only thing that inspired my memory was a huge temple shape gate.
ラオスのイミグレはこじんまりとしていたが、ありえないくらいでかいストゥーパの形をしたゲートがかなり目立っていた。



The process was very smooth.
出国手続きはすんなり。


After cycled a bit to cross a hill, very very fancy China gate was appeared on my way.
丘を一つ越えると中国側の絢爛豪華なゲートがドドーンと目の前に現れる。




The immigration was also very modern. It's like a immigration in an airport.
イミグレも飛行場みたいに綺麗で、両国の経済格差がはっきりと現れていた。




The process in this side was also very smooth. I didn't get my stuff checked.
入国審査は至ってスムーズで、何もチェックはされなかった。


In a town of china side, Mohang, there were a lot of fancy buildings and still many under-construction. How strong China economy is..
中国側のモーハンに進むと、これまた絢爛豪華な建物がこれでもかと言わんばかりに立ち並ぶ。しかも建築途中の建物もまだまだ沢山あって、中国の経済成長の勢いがうかがい知れる。




The road was very easy to ride. In Lao, there were a lot of switch-bucks. In here, the road was constructed by cutting through mountain, digging tunnels and making slope easy.
道路も本当走り易い。ラオスは山間部をつづら折りしながら進んでたのに対して、中国のハイウェイは山を切り崩し、トンネルを通し、スロープは至ってなだらかだ。




Today, I didn't push much so stopped at a hotel in Mengla, a town 40km north of the border.
初日の今日は無理せず、国境から40キロ程にあるモンラーで一泊した。


This might be considered as a small town in China. But there was a lot of stores and people selling things along a street. It's very strong mood of energy in this town.
中国の街にしたら小さいんだろうが、商店が道を埋め尽くし、行商人が道を行き交い、かなり活気のある街だ。


In south east of Asia, it's normally relaxing mood but here, seems everybody is busy. I felt a bit stress. I need to get used to it.
雰囲気も東南アジアののんびりとした感じから、どことなく忙しない感じ。なんか落ち着かない。いやいや、でもこの雰囲気に慣れなくてはならない。


Anyway, I got into China without any trouble.
とにもかくにも問題なく中国入りできましたとさ。

This is the last day of my stay in south east Asia. I stopped at a guest house in Boten, a village 7km south of the border.
あっという間の東南アジアも今夜で最後。最後の夜は国境手前7キロにあるボーテン。





There were no restaurant, but I found a Yakitori place so could eat it with drinking Beer Lao.
食堂もない小さな村だが、青空焼き鳥屋があって最後のビアラオを焼き鳥と共に飲む事ができた。



From tomorrow, I will start cycling China.
明日からいよいよ長い中国生活が始まります。