Sicily, しちりあ
I have stayed at Mr. Salvatore's home for 3 days and headed off. This area, around Tropea was quite nice place to relax. It's a bit difficult to access without car or bicycle, but if you do, I recommend.

Have repaired his bicycles during my stay.

Now, I'm getting into Sicily. There are couple of cities where ferries leave to Sicilia; Villa S. Giov and Reggio DI Calabria. I went on Villa S. Giov, and It took 30 min to cross.
そして今日からシシリア島に入る。イタリア本島とシチリア島はフェリーで30分、Villa S. GiovとReggio DI Calabriaという町の2ヶ所から出ている。自分が使ったのは前者。

The ferry runs every 20min, so I didn't need to wait at all. It costs only €3, and bicycle was for free.

Welcome to Sicily.
というわけでWelcome to シチリア

My first stop was Taormina. It was a really touristic resort where many white rich people were walking, so I didn't like at all.. I don't know why I stopped here. However, the beach was very nice.

This face with three foots is the character of sicily. I don't know the name of it.

There were some fish markets on my way and I saw a big tuna. It cost €10 per kg..

As I mentioned before, in southern Italy, they have long afternoon off, Siesta. Since then, people go for buying things before noon.

Could see Mt. Etna from this town. As a person from volcanic island, Japan, it's not really interesting for me. If they have hot springs, it would be very nice to visit. Seems no hot springs here...
[2013/06/28 23:59 ] | Italy | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Sun and rubbish, 太陽とゴミ
Have cycled Tropea, Calabria province. This town is only 100km away from Sisilia.

より大きな地図で Cycling Southern Italy を表示

I crossed the mountains from the east side to west of Italian peninsula.

It was really hard work since extremely up down and strong sun light.

The water was not the issue. They had always water running like Islam countries.

The inland was a bit boring compare to the coast line.

I started seeing more garbage on the road and towns. There were rubbish everywhere.

Like the game "Sim City". When they are reduced the budget, the gorbage get more on the road. They don't maintain bushes made blind corners of the roads, and I don't see police men. Seems the south is more disorganized.

Tropea is not exceptional. However, since this is the place where tourists come, this town was cleaner than the others. The town is on the cliff. The contrast of town and blue ocean was amazing.

Looks the sun-man is their regional caracter.

I don't normally want to buy souvenir but here it's exceptional. They have many nice ones.

In this town, I take a rest at a local family where I found on Warmshower web. After this stop, it will be Sisilia.
[2013/06/24 18:23 ] | Italy | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Cycled Basilicata, バジリカータを走る
Now in Basilicata province. Compare to Puglia, this province doesn't have many interests. Matera was only place I was interested in. However, I missed it because I went a wrong way and gave up to visit. Then, I simply cycled along the coast.


There were many らかはquiet beaches, and water was so clear.

Agriculture is main industry here. Cycled along the fields of orengs, lemons and grapes.

In southern Italy, they do siesta; people take a break during the day. When you come into a town or village afternoon, they look like a ghost town. You cannot find food and even coca-cola.

They open up around 5pm. In Italy, there were always shops selling hams and cheese, even small village. They have many kinds, and those cheese are very tasty.

[2013/06/21 22:22 ] | Italy | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Pretty towns in Puglia, プーリアの美しい町の数々
After Bari, Puglia province, I headed south. The major industory of this region is fishing and agriculture, so I saw people sold fish and vegetables.

Italian in southern Italy was very nice as I said before. People gave me water, and some time people gave me free vegetables at shops.

As I cycled south, houses with strange shape roof have been appeared. It is called Trulli. People still live in this house. I felt I was a traveler in "Dragon Quest" and visiting a village in different world.

In Alberobello, there were an area where many of Trulli were. This area is a unesco sight.

There were even Trulli church. I am for sure girls like this place.

It was really fun to cycle this region because there were many Trulli all over.

After visiting Alberobello, my next stop was Martina Franca. This town was also really really cool place to look at. They had an old center that was still center of this town. Many small street and white color buildings were appearing so beautifully. This was exactly fit on my image of southern Italy.

Nice contrast with white buildings and blue sky.

I like southern Italy a lot.
ん~ 南イタリアすごくいぃっすな。
[2013/06/19 21:41 ] | Italy | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
A short Adrian Cruise to Bari, プチアドリア海クルーズでバーリへ
There is a ferry running between Dubrovnik and Bari, Italy. Deck, cheapest price was for €59, and they had no charge for bicycle. It leaves at 22:00 and takes 10 hours to get to Italy.


Time schedule for this year, 今年のタイムスケジュール

I lined up on the line for vehicle, and got on board 20:30,

My bike was tied by a rope like this.

Deck class was not like a ferry in Japan. There were no sleeping space. People need to sleep on the floor where people pass by all the time. I didn't want to sleep such place so slept on the deck outside. It's chilly in the night, so only I was sleeping outside. I had a sleeping bag and mattress so didn't have any trouble for cold breeze.

In the morning, just right after I woke up.

So blue. Italian peninsula has been appeared.

I just stayed the deck until arrival. Some people came up on the deck to get a flesh air. Those are mostly couple. I was jealous. Seemed I was a only person who traveled in wild. Anyway, the ferry arrived Bari on time.

Easy arrival process as before.

I need a map of Italy first of all. I still prefer the map rather than GPS. I use GPS function of iPhone sometime but still use map more because its just fun to look at

I looked around this town and tried to find a decent map in same time. I found this town, Bari, had a quite beautiful old center.

There were many alleys and old western looking apartments along those small streets. As I went on these, I smelled washed cloth hung out on balconies. I saw some small shops, bakery, butcher etc.., People were chatting something and laughing. It looked very peaceful. I felt Italians were more relaxed and easy going. Since Croatian in Dubrovnik were a bit unfriendly and unhelpful for me, I felt I would be able to enjoy my time in southern Italy more.
[2013/06/18 21:48 ] | Italy | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Dubrovnik, ドゥブロブニク
I'm a tourist now in Dubrovnik. I think the number of tourists here is bigger than the population of local here. Those tourist look very rich. They might be on a cruise ship.

The old town is pretty. Now I understood that they were called the pearl of Adria sea.


Many alleyways. Fun to walk.

Tourists keep coming in and out.

Buildings of baroque, Romanesque, and Renaissance.

Many places I have been so far were influenced by ottoman empire, so this place looks fresh to me.
[2013/06/17 17:14 ] | Croatia | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
The pearl of Adria sea, アドリア海の真珠
Kenan and I separated and went on our own way after sharing experiences for 4 days. He is going to Montenegro, and I'm going to Croatia. I hope we get to meet again some time in the future.

In that day, I had border crossing for 3 times. It's because there were very small part of Bosnia left along the coast of Adria sea. Its stretch was only 10km long. Those crossing were very smooth. I didn't even need to get any stamps.

Since I left Bulgaria, I reached to the ocean again, Adria sea.

Adria sea was blue and very clear.

In this day, I found a really nice camp spot where I could pitch my tent in front of the sea and swim. For bad thing, I left my swimming pants here....What stupid I was...

Next day, I arrived to Dubrovnik after cycling 50km from my nice camp spot. Dubrovnik is one of the most famous resort in Adria sea, so a lot of tourist buses run and passed by me. Also there were huge cruise boats docked. How big they are.

There were so many tourists as i expected. However, Dubrovnik was still beautiful. I remembered Moyazaki movie, Witch's mail delivery service; sorry I don't know how it's titled in English. This place was the image of where Kiki lived.

The price of accommodation in Dubrovnik was super expensive I've ever experienced. It seems I got to expensive part of Europe. Cheap Hostel cost at least €20, and normal room called Sobe was about €45. I don't like hostel and to stay at Sobe is expensive. Then I chose camping. There was a auto camp, Kpari, 8km south of Old town. It cost €8 and is connected the city buses running every 30min witch cost €2 for one way. I think this is the best option for budget travelers.
ドゥブロブニクの宿もこれまでのレベルをはるかに超える程高い。どうやら高いヨーロッパに突入したようです。Hostelで€20~。沢山ある民主的な宿Sobeは平均€45。ホステル嫌いだし、民宿高いしという理由で今回はドゥブロブニクから南に8km程にあるキャンプ場Kupari Auto camp、€8に泊まった。バスも30分ごとくらいにあって片道約€2。多分この辺りでは最安でしょう。

I will spend couple of days here and leave to Italy by a ferry.
[2013/06/16 09:41 ] | Croatia | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
the memories of the war, 紛争の記憶
I met a Turkish cyclist, Kenan on my way to Mostar. It was the first time for me to see a cyclist going same direction since I left Istanbul. Of cause, we cycled together to Mostar. Kenan is a photographer, and he is on his tour around Balkan in this summer.


Bosnia was also very mountainous like Montenegro.

The canyon along the way from Sarajevo to Mostar was really beautiful.

We met locals in a village called Jablanica, and they let us stayed at their home.

We talked till mid night. One of guys, Ahmet talked us about his experiences during the war. He was smiling and laughing at the conversation before, but his mood was changed when he started talking about it. I felt a bit sorry for him to talk. However, I thought it would be polite to listen all, so we listened what he talked.

I cannot explain detail of his experiences. It was very painful to even listen. He lost many relatives. They had been killed for nothing. Just only reason was because they were Bosnian. He said he hated Serbian. His friend who was with us also said he hated Serbian.

It's been 20 years since the war ended. However, I thought people still need more times to recover their emotional scars, like buildings damaged in Sarajevo.

Next day, we arrived Mostar. This town is an old ottoman empire town.

These building once had been destroyed during the war and reconstructed after.

There were even more damaged buildings remained.

We camped in a campground 7km south of Mostar.

The owner of this campground told us that this area was one of the place where the war had been intense. It's because this area was the front line of where Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian army had been faced. His uncle, he was with us, had been shot his stomach and left leg. Now he lost his left leg. I felt from their conversation that they also still hate Serbian and Croatian.

Again, it's been only 20 years after the war. I heard that there were still a lot of conflicts among politics, Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian party. Their government system is still under supervised of international organization. I thought again it takes more time to solve problems of after the war.

I wouldn't see the reality of how people now live in Bosnia if I didn't come. It was very variable experience. I won't forget my experience here.
[2013/06/13 23:54 ] | Bosnia Hercegovina | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Bosna i Hercegovina, ボスニアヘルツェゴビナ
I unexpectedly reached the border of Bosnia after cycling along Tara canyon. What I was confused was that the intersection I came out was located between the custom of both countries. I couldn't believe how it would be possible. It looked no big deal so I could safely go through some processing to get out and in.


The reason I came to Bosnia was to see the situation of this country after wars. Balkan had been having a lot of conflicts until 20 years ago. You will see a lot of evidences of this sad history if you visit.

My first stop was Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia. This country has many muslim and Christian both, so you can see monuments of both religion in same area, for example, I saw mosque and churches had been built in same area.

There were many new buildings and fancy shops in Sarajevo. It looked no evidence of the wars at first. However, if you walk and look behind town, there were many evidences; there were still many buildings with a lot of bullets marks.

A lot of graves in center as well. This was in a park of center.

I don't know who buy this souvenir.
土産物でこんな物も・・・ 誰が買うんだか。

I found a lot of negative evidences of the wars at first. However, atmospheres was very peaceful. I saw many kids on their school trip and youngsters walking street and having ice-creams. There were many tourists. The hostel I stayed was pretty full. I found also local people were pretty nice and helpful when I went to a market. The life of here looked hard but people have strongly lived here. I have stayed in Sarajevo for couple of days and now am going to Mostar where the war had been intense.
[2013/06/11 18:10 ] | Bosnia Hercegovina | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Crossing Durmitor N.P., ドゥルミトル国立公園越え
It was full of sun shine on the date I crossed Durmitor. I felt extra power from my body since unexpected strong sun light on me in the morning.

I found this bicycle route on the national park map. There were always signs at intersections so it was pretty easy to find the way.

There were couple of routes to cross mountains by bicycle. The south route had been closed due to snow, so I picked the north route. It got also high pass, 2000m. However, this road had been oped because some small villages were along this road.

より大きな地図で Cycling Europe 2 を表示

The view on my way was absolutely perfect. This paved road goes till a village called Crna Gora.
景色はもちろん二重丸、最高でした。幅3mくらいの舗装路がCrna Goraの村まで続いてます。

Tara Canyon, I could see the deepest part of it from the top of the pass. The deepest part is about 1300m so people cannot reach to this part without boats.

After crossing the pass, a beautiful canyon called Susicko Canyon has been appeared on my way.
峠を越えて国立公園内側に入ると目の前に現れた渓谷。Susicko Canyon

There was an off road part from the village, Crna Gora to the bottom of the canyon and from the bottom to other side of canyon. Very rough gravel road, 6km down and up.
Crna Gora村からSusicko Canyonへの下りと上りはオフロード。15センチ大の岩がゴロゴロ転がっていたが、なんとか時間をかけて谷越。

The lake on the canyon.
谷底にある湖Susicko Lake。

This lake was really beautiful. There was a hat on the shore, and a ranger was running this place. He didn't understand any English, so there are completely silent in this place.

Pushing my bike up for 6km from bottom to the other side of canyon. I found a cafe and had a bottle of coca-cola. Nice!!
Susicko Canyonを6キロ手押しで登りきった場所にあったカフェ。コーラが美味い。

Should have taken before drink.

This bicycle route goes all the way to the Bosnia border. There were almost no traffic and all the way down, very easy ride.
[2013/06/10 00:41 ] | Montenegro  | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Mountain part of Montenegro, モンテネグロの山岳地帯
Many of tourist places are located along the coast in this country, so most of tourist tend to stay there. However, I found more interest in inland mountain part of this country, so I decided to come Montenegro to see this part instead of going to Greece which was my original plan.


The region of where Bosnia and Serbia borders are especially more mountainous. There are the national park called Durmitor in this part of region. It is one of world heritage sight in this country.

The second biggest canyon in the world, Tara canyon. 世界第二のタラ渓谷

As you come from Kosovo and go towered Bosnia, you will hit the Tara river. The canyon created by this river is the second biggest canyon; next to Grand Canyon. During summer season, you can enjoy rafting.

There were beautiful beech forest in this canyon so water comes out everywhere.

I met many cyclist in this route.

It reminded me cycling in central Asia where I met many cyclists.

I pitched my tent one night at a restaurant in Tara canyon. At that night, people treated me a dinner again. Montenegrin's hospitality was over my expectation.

The bridge crossed Tara canyon. If you go other direction, Serbia border is not far.

After cycling up from the bottom of Tara canyon, Durmitor N.P. was appeared.

The small town, Zabljak, is the head quarter of N.P. access. There were some camp grounds, €3, in this area. I decided to stay some nights in a private camp ground instead of camping out somewhere for free because I liked the atmosphere of this area and wanted to take shower. There were not such as N.P. Entrance. I was told me that just need to pay whenever a ranger found you and asked to pay for €3 for entrance fee.

Many snow still left so couldn't go up to the top of mountain. However, there were plenty of hike-able hills around.

My camp ground. The wife of owner was very nice. Every time she saw me, she gave me coffee and snacks. They had also camper kitchen and shower as well. For me, this place was very comfortable. The view is guaranteed.

It's still a lot of cloud but got much better now. From here, I will cross this mountain by bicycle.
[2013/06/08 08:47 ] | Montenegro  | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
To Montenegro, モンテネグロ入りしました
Since I crossed the border of Kosovo, it's been unpleasant weather. This might be the Europe's rain season. It was raining as well when I passed a pass where Montenegro border was. I felt the humidity was nearly 100%. it didn't matter if I wore rain jacket or not. I was soaked by my sweat. I wished I could cycle without any clothes.


On the way to the border, I saw this signs.

I've never seen a sign for tanks. Of cause there were no tanks running on the road. However, I've seen military jeeps from Italy, Germany and Turkey some times.

To the top of the pass, it was 25km climbing. Kosovo side border check was located about 15km up point. Then from there, I needed to climb up another 10km to the Montenegro side.

The border, そして国境

My concerning, I didnt have a departure stamp of Albania, was not problem at all. I crossed the border as usual, departure stamp of Kosovo and arrival stamp of Montenegro.

For my impression of Montenegro, people are nice and helpful. They looked more relax and gentle. Their youngster was a bit more shy but always gave a smile and said hello to me. At the first night, I camped out at a farm. In that night, neighbor gave me coffee and a lot of food. Now, I started feeling relax. I had been feeling a bit stress in Albania and Kosovo because I felt people were a bit rough. From today, my route became more mountains. It will be fun.
[2013/06/04 22:13 ] | Montenegro  | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
About Kosovo, コソボについて
Kosovo is an independent country. However, half of countries in UN have not recognized Kosovo as an independent country yet. Japan is one of countries that has recognized. This is an Albanian's country, so there were many Albania's flags in this town even though this is Kosovo. Souvenir shops sell Albania's goods as well. People are nothing different from people of Albania. In Kosovo, America, a country helped Kosovo to independent, is super hero; I saw many flags of America in town. I heard that there were even statue of Bill Clinton in the capital.


My image of Kosovo was "WAR". I felt a bit worry about safety. However, after walking around town, I didn't feel any danger at all. There were cafes and many youngsters walked in town.

I talked to the owner of the hostel about the war. He told me that now they were more attention to how this country would be developed as an independent country. I just talked to an individual so it would be more different in different region such as places close to Serbia's border where the war had been more intense.

In Prizren, there were many churches and mosques including Church of the Holy Virgin of Ljeviska, a unesco sight.

This church was closed by fences around. Fortunately, I could go inside with a tour group that I coincidently met. However, Inside was hardly damaged. It was sad. I have seen German soldiers in town some times, and most of churches had been closed. It showed that there were still some tension over the last war.
[2013/06/03 19:41 ] | Kosovo | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
The man cycled 30000km getting into Kosovo, 3万キロの男コソボへ
The highway to Kosovo was very nice highway that reminds me a national highway in China. Its snaking down to Kosovo.

I camped a night at a gas station. They had a restaurant and kindly gave me a free dinner and beers at that night.

A KM before the border, I reached total distance 30000km (about 20000mile).

Getting into Kosovo, コソボへ入国

They didn't give me a stamp for departure, and I got only a stamp for arrival in Kosovo. I'm a bit worry about it. I hope nothing problem is happened when I am going out.

10 KM from border, I arrived to Prizren, an ancient city. They had a nice guesthouse, city hostel. I will stay here for couple of nights to see what's going on in Kosovo.
ここから10キロ走って到着したのはプリズレンという古都。ここにはちゃんとしたCity Hostel という安宿もある。そんなわけで、コソボの空気を知る為にも滞在する事にした。
[2013/06/02 15:34 ] | Kosovo | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
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