Back on the Road to Lilongwe, 久々に走り始めてリロングウェ
since Lilongwe is located high elevation, about 1100m, I had to cycle mainly up. The gap from the lake was only 600m, but it was a big work out for me because I had been out of bicycle for about 2 weeks.
One night at Chezi.


Open market was really alive with shoppers.


The only guest house in this village was 500MK, about $1.2 per night!!

この村に1件だけあった宿は何と1泊500クワチャ 約120円。安かろう悪かろうで、案の定ダニに噛まれました。

From Lilongwe, I was suppose to go down to Zimbabwe via Mozambique. However, I found Mozambique embassy in Lilongwe was not issuing any visa at this moment. They told me to come back some time in next week.
I can get a single visa at the border but it will be $80, stupidly expensive.
I thought this was a sort of sign from the God to tell me not to go there.
My decision was easy; going to Zimbabwe via Zambian route.


In Lilongwe, I had an opportunity to meet people from JAICA, the Japanese government fund organisation helping developing countries.
They were on the project for Malawi's education reform.
What they do was really interesting.


As I had been on volunteer works in Ishinomaki, I felt a link to what they do for other countries. We had endless conversations until midnight. Interesting people and having some alcohols made enthusiastic night.

[2014/01/31 06:34 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Still in Lake Malawi, まだ続くマラウイ湖畔滞在
Senga Bay was pretty nice place to chill out, so I stayed for couple of nights.
Seemed there was a commercial fishery. Their fishing boats were bigger than others I've seen in Lake Malawi.

Senga Bay もなかなか面白い場所で2泊した。ここはちゃんとした漁協のような物があって、船も大きめで取れる魚の量も多いらしい。

They catch fish by lighting.

In the morning, there were many people on the beach and buying fish from fisher man. Chambo fish is one of the most expensive fish. A big one was priced 1000MK about $2.

朝砂浜には沢山の人が出ていて、仲買人が漁師から魚を買っていた。Chambo というマラウイの高級魚、大きな魚は1000クワチャ近くする。

It was a bit too expensive to buy for a dinner since Hide-san and I were planing to make fish soup. We bought a butter fish and blue fish instead.


The soup was very simple. He used only Dashi, a based soup. Then, we just dipped boiled fish on Tare, a sauce for dipping that he made with soy sauce and lemons.


We challenged for fishing as well though caught nothing.

It was last day for enjoying lake Malawi. I have to be back on the road again.

[2014/01/29 06:26 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Crossing Lake Malawi by boat, 船でマラウイ湖を南下
Heading south by boat again. ILALA, the steam boat I took from North had run to Monkey Bay, a town in south shore of the lake, by the last year, but now has run only as far as Likoma island. Now, I had to transfer another boat to the south.

Nkhata Bay からさらにフェリーを乗り継いで南下する。去年まではILALA(ここに来る時使った蒸気船)が湖南部のMonkey Bayまで週一で運行していたらしいのだけれど、今はLikomaまでしか運行していない。マラウイ湖クルーズを上からの下までしたい場合は船を乗り換える必要がある。

より大きな地図で Cycling East Africa 1/2 を表示

It's a bit complicated. From Nkhata Bay, took ILALA again and went to Likoma island. Then, transferred to another boat called Chambo going to Metangula, a town in east shore of the lake, Mozambique. Stayed overnight at Metangula and came back to Senga Bay, Malawi side in the next day.

少しややこしいのだけれど、まずNkhata Bay からまたILALAに乗りLikoma island に行く、そこでChamboというモザンビークの船に乗り換えて、モザンビークのMetamguraに行き船で1泊、翌日1日かけてマラウイのSenga Bayまで行く。下の予定表と地図を見た方が分かりやすいかも。

Chambo stops Likoma every Sunday, picks up passengers and goes to Metangula eventually.
It stops many villages along the lake and runs till Chipoka, Malawi via Senga Bay.
This photo was taken by Hide-san who took this boat with me. We were transferring to Chambo at Likoma Island.

Chamboは毎週 日曜にLikomaに停泊して客を拾ってモザンビークのMetanguraまで行く。そして翌日月曜にMetamguraから途中数箇所モザンビークの村々に停泊しながらマラウイのSenga Bayに寄り、最終的にChipokaまで運行している。この写真はILALAから小舟でChamboに乗り換える時。一緒に乗った日本人のヒデさんに撮ってもらった。

When we got to Likoma, Chambo had been already left. The operator of ILALA called Chambo, and it was turned back to Likoma.
Even though both ships are operated by same company, they don't share operations. This is African service.


We were brought to Chambo, and it left to Mozambique. This boat was quite new but really small.


The beach in Mozambique side was even prettier. Chambo moves slowly and stops many different local villages with baobab trees.


People speaks Portuguese in Mozambique. An immigration officer and operators of Chambo had been speaking in Portuguese, though They don't really speak English.


I was wondering if I needed a visa for Mozambique because Japanese citizen was required the visa to entry. However, we were just on the boat and wouldn't get off in Mozambique side. I thought we wouldn't need.
What I guessed was true, but the immigration officer at Likoma island has stamped on my passport even though I explained. It was actually not really problem when we came back to Malawi side, but I hope it doesn't cause any problem when I leave this country.


After over night at Metangula, I arrived to Senga Bay.
Chambo is normally stopped in the beach and dropped some passengers. It was really hard work to get off with a bicycle and other bags though it was really fun.

そんなこんなで1泊2日の後、Senga Bay に到着した。ChamboはMetangura以外毎回砂浜に接岸するのだけれど、荷物を降ろすのがかなり大変だった(結構面白かったけど)。腰上まで浸かって荷物を数回に分けて岸に運 ぶ。

So many people have came to the beach to see what was going on. When I was working on my luggage, more then 100 people had been looking at what I was doing. If I was not with Hide, it would be very difficult.


My Malawi lake cruise was really successful and fun, but it was a bit pricy.


Every Thursday, 木曜発着
Chilumba - Nkhata Bay; 5050MK, by ILALA

Every Sunday, 日曜発着
Nkhata Bay - Likoma; 2900MK, by ILALA

Every Sunday, 日曜発着
Likoma - Metangura; 4000MK+bicycle3150MK, by Chambo

Every Monday, 月曜発着
Metangura - Senga Bay; 4000MK+bicycle 3500MK, by Chambo

About $52 total. The cost of bicycle was surprisingly expensive.

計22600MK 約5500円。自転車代が案外高くついている。まぁ湖は堪能できたし楽しかったんで良しとします。
[2014/01/27 17:29 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Scuba Diving in Lake Malawi, マラウイ湖で淡水ダイブ
It's been a long time since I scuba dived in the last time. It will be my first over-sea-scuba diving and in fresh water.


The price of it was really expensive in Malawi; 1day dive and 1night for $100!! There are no many places in the world for the people to be able to scuba dive in fresh water with full of endemic species, so of cause I did it.


The visibility was about 10m and average depth was about 15m. There were so many fish in the water. I was very impressed.


I saw many fish that I've only seen on TV or at an aquarium shop such as the mouth breeding fish, the fish swimming upside down, catfish , fish coming out only in the night etc..


I was happy enough for these two dives. However, If the price was cheaper, I preferred to do more. It's okay.


The Dive Shop was Aqua Africa. It's only one shop in Nkhata Bay, I assumed. This British own shop was neatly fanished, but their service was neither good nor bad.

ダイブショップはNkhata Bayにあるアクアアフリカ。イギリス人オーナーの小綺麗なショップ。何か業務的にこなす所があまり好きでは無かったけれど、可もなく不可もなくといったショップだった。
[2014/01/25 06:07 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Steam Boat of Malawi, マラウイの蒸気船
This steamer named Ilala. People won't recognize if I just say "Steamer". This is definitely the most famous boat in Malawi.


She had run till Monkey bay by last year, and now only run till Likoma island via Nkhata bay.
From Likoma, people can possibly transfer different boat called "Chambo". It stops some ports in Mozambique and eventually arrives Chipoka, Malawi.

去年まではマラウイ湖最南のモンキーベイまで行っていたらしいのだけれど今はNkhata bayを経由してLikomaまでしか行かないらしい。Likomaからは違う船、これは蒸気船では無い新しい船Chamboというモザンビークの船が出ていて、モザンビークの港をいくつか経由してマラウイのChipokaまで行ってるらしい。もしChilumbaからChipokaまで行きたい場合は、Likomaで船を乗り継ぐ。詳しくは下のスケジュールで確認して下さい。

Ilala leaves Chilumba on Thursday at 6am. A guy at a ticket office in Chilumba told me to come on Wednesday night, so I got on board a day before and slept inside.


My bicycle was stored on bow of the boat. I kept my luggage and locked all together.


I slept on the deck of economy class. There were many cockroaches.
Then, next morning Ilala left Chilumba but it was an hour after 6am..


This is African boat. People carry strange things like firewood, straw etc...


They had a kitchen so I could have things during cruising. The breakfast was 800 MK, about $1.7 with 4 slices of bread and a cup of tea.

ちゃんと台所完備で飯が食える。朝はお茶と食パン4枚、800クワチャ 170円くらい。

She stopped 4 different small villages along the lake and picked up people by small boat.


In this boat, there were many crews. I didn't understand why they need such many crews.
This is Africa.


After 13 hours, she finally arrived to Nkhata bay. I have planed to Scuba Diving here.

13時間後やっと目的地のNkhata Bay に到着した。ここで久々のスキューバダイビングをする。

より大きな地図で Cycling East Africa 1/2 を表示
[2014/01/23 08:04 ] | Malawi | Comments:(1) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Days for waiting for Steamer, Chilumbaの蒸気船待ちの日々
Malawi, one of friendliest people in east and Southern Africa, it might be true. As I stay here since few days ago, I discovered that more people smiling and greeting to me. Of cause, I have been still asked for money or things but it is all the same in Africa. Without thinking about it, people were very nice to me.
Thus, I'm very enjoying for staying in this small village, Chilumba.


There were always some people doing thing on the beach; fishermen catching fish, kids running, caws drinking water etc...


Almost every time when I walked on the beach, children came and greet me.
They wore vey torn out cloth but their smile was shining enough to hide their cloth.


Small fisherman craft passed by the beach.


This is the chance to buy fish. The life is very simple here. People go to the beach to find a fisherman coming back. If there was, start negotiating.
The price is depending on the fish. Some are cheap and some not.
The one I posted photo before was not expensive; 5 for 1000MK, about $2. The one called blue fish is expensive; one for 500.
The life here is very fun.


While my stay in Chilumba, I walked to different part of village. About an hour walk on the beach and some rocky trail to the north, there was very beautiful small coves.


The water was even more clear. As I walked on the sand of the bottom, small sands ascended and shining in the water.


People where I camped, Thunduzi Beach Camp.

Thunduzi Beach Campの人達。

There were couple of loges in Chilumba but the location and price was the best here. People were very helpful.

[2014/01/22 12:00 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
I came to Chilumba, a small town in the north of the lake. The steam boat is supposed to be running from here. I went to the port and asked about the boat. There was but it runs only once a week and it was on Thursday, 4 days from when I arrived.
I was thinking how I should; give up steam boat or stay here for 4 days.

どうしようかと迷いながらもとりあえずの宿を探すと何とも良い感じなキャンプ場を発見。Thunduzi Beach Camp.

I decided to stay here because I found a nice camp ground with beach in front.


It was really good location and price was reasonable. It will be a good resting stop.


I believed I mentioned before that I used to have an aquarium at home and loved it. My aquarium was mainly for water plants, but I also liked fish.
I was loving to see the fish from all over the world at a aquarium shops or just reading a book of picture books.


Lake Tanganyika and Malawi were one of the famous place for endemic species. I've seen fish from this lake many many time at the shop or books. This is very exciting for me to visit this lake and seeing real fish swimming in the lake.


This fish, I got from fisherman is called mouth breeder, a fish taking care of her young fish in her mouth until those got big enough. This can be seen only in lake Malawi.


I cooked this fish with soy sauce. It was really tasty.


This lake supports many lives. People catch fish, wash, bath and do almost everything in this lake.


This lake is still very clear, and no much rubbish can be found on the beach. I was really impressed.

[2014/01/20 11:50 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
To Malawi, マラウイ入国まで
From Mbeya, the elevation 1800m, I needed to cross a pass 2200m. It was a quite hard work. The rain season made more miserable to cross this misty pass.


Many different vegetables have been grown here especially banana plantation was huge.


Many bananas had been sold at a local market.


I am always amazed how women carries heavy things on their head. I know a bunch of bananas is very heavy.


Normally, I had been given a banana at a restaurant but in here, at the restaurant when I had a lunch, they gave me three bananas.


Mangos were another things I've seen many times. A bucket of mangos were about $2 only.


Pineapples were 60 to 80 cents each. They can slice.


Anyway, this was on my way to the border. Then I crossed. Malawi is a visa-free country for Japanese for 30 days.
Exchanging guys in this border have one of the worst reputation in east Africa, so never exchange money with these people. They are just crooks.


I've heard that the people of Malawi was one of friendliest people on east Africa, so Malawi was one of the place I was looking forward to visiting. At the first impression, it's the same to Tanzania; still "money money give me money!!"


However, this country is definitely quieter than Tanzania. I don't see cars or motorbikes here. People mostly walk or on bicycles.


Japanese Mamachari was still helping people here.


African BBQ, I even saw in Tanzania many times.


The system is easy. Bucher men cut their meat and sell it on iron plate. One small slice is about 3 cents. This BBQ place is like social place for the men, so always some men are chatting.


Cameroon again

She has a kid in this time.
She came crumbling on my arm.


At a market in Kalonga. Many fish from lake Malawi have been sold.


This lake cannot been seen much from the road. The view is normally like this photo.


It's nice but a bit boring. Kids are always like to find random tourist. I was still called Muzumgu. Hello hello Muzungu !! and big smiling and waving hands. This is good part but once they started saying "Money!!". It's a bit frustrating but this is African.

車が通らないから楽しいちゃ楽しいけど正直飽きますね。道端は民家が沢山あって、ひっきりなしに子供が声をかけて来ます。ムズングー!ハローハロー !までなら気持ち良いのだけれど、ギブミーマネーが入るとげんなり。まぁそれもアフリカなんで仕方ないんですが。
[2014/01/18 21:07 ] | Malawi | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
OMG Finally Σ(゚д゚lll)ついに
My camera, iPhone and many small things have been stolen. Other important things such as bicycle, credit cards and passport were safe.


I was staying at a hotel called Holiday Hotel in Mbeya for three nights. In the day I was leaving, I closed the door and went to breakfast at the restaurant located next to the hotel. After 10 to 15min, I went back to the room. The door was opened, and I found my camera and iPhone had been stolen. I'm pretty for sure that the one who stole was someone in the hotel


I can still remember how I was so shocked when I saw my front bag without the camera.


I don't have PC so use my iPhone for everything.
I lost photos from Nairobi to Mbeya that I haven't save on my HDD, about for last a month.
These two things were the most painful things stolen.


The total value I lost was about over$1000.
However, I have a chance to get some money back. I have an insurance that covers loosing personal belongings.
I can't expect 100% back but hope some back.
The average income for normal African in Tanzania is about $100 up to $200, so the one who took my things got more than half year of his or her income....


I had extra stays in Mbeya for getting police report, finding a new computer, smart phone and camera.


The owner of Holiday Hotel was very kind and helped me to work on my problems. His family was originally from India, and he has now a quite big business in Mbeya.


Mbeya was not good place to find advanced items, but surprisingly I found a iPhone5c. For cameras, all I could see at shops were "Rubbish" and price was more than double compared to Japan, so I gave up and just use the camera on the iPhone.


After 3 days, I got the police report and sent it to insurance company. iPhone was sat up enough to keep updating.
I very thank to the owner of Holiday Hotel who helped to solve problems.

[2014/01/14 19:28 ] | Tanzania | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Boring section from Iringa, つまらんイリンガから
It was very boring and tiring distance for 400km between Iringa and Mbeya, the transit town en route Zambia and Malawi.


より大きな地図で Cycling East Africa 1/2 を表示

Just bushy view along the way, there were no enjoyable sight such as baobab and acacia growing up or wild animals grazing.


Southern Tanzania is now rain season. I got scatter shower almost everyday.
Every afternoon, rain cloud was formed up on the sky and started showering.


After shower is refreshing but...This main road is really dangerous with big trucks and buses. I hated it. African's driving is really really crazy. They are absolutely worst in the world.
I was really pleased that I had a miller on my eye glasses so could check trucks coming behind.
I strongly recommend any cyclists who plans to cycle here to have the miller. It must well worth.

[2014/01/13 11:29 ] | Tanzania | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Isimira, イシミラに立ち寄ってみた
I stopped by Isimira ancient sight. It was 16km south west from Iringa. From this sight, ancient human trace has been excavated including human born, tools etc....
Other than that, what makes special for this place is strangely shaped rocks formation.
I'm not interested in archeology but curious about rock formation so decided to stop here.


Entrance fee was 20000Tsh, about $13, not so cheap. African is for 1000Tsh, $0.7. I felt a bit pity but paid.


This is the rock formation. These type of formations are actually everywhere in the world. Gyoreme, Turkey and Brice canyon, The U.S. are much more impressive.


Hyrax sleeping on the rocks.

He was cleaning guy but guided me.

Some ancient tools found from here.

Isimira was not really interesting place to visit but was a good resting stop.

[2014/01/08 21:00 ] | Tanzania | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Dodoma-Iringa, ドドマからイリンガまで
The road between Dodoma and Iringa had been under construction by china. It was easy to cycle in most of the part.


Most of the workers were African. In Tanzania, unemployment rate is very high. I thought China was doing good on the people though their working condition and benefit might be not good enough. It's still better than nothing.


In Africa, all Asian are "Chinese". I was called "Hey China" some times. It annoys me every time.
However, China is the biggest nation involved development of Africa, so I understand that i cannot change people to say "Hey Japan".
Actually, Japan also has been investing Africa with a lot lot of money(ODA), but image of investment still dominated by "China".


A bee flew into my sunglasses and stuck between a glass and eyelids. Then he stings my eyelid. I became very ugly.


There were much more upping down than I expected for Tanzania. Going up hill to Iringa. Nice view of forested area.


Road-less. Ruaha National Park is not far from here.


At a lunch, Wali, local name of rice has been done for cooking in early afternoon.
They have also Ugari, but I prefer rice.


The menu was always one choice. Wali Nyama, rice with beef stew or Ugari Nyama, Ugari with beef stew. Banana is local preferred essence on the rice. It was actually good.


A Chameleon crossing road. He walks very slowly. Strange looking.


Actually, he can run faster. As I tried to catch him, he cried and crossed the road very quickly. He might be just lazy like African.
There were many strange spices in Africa.


Especially, during the nights, many strange things came out. This is one of them. a centipede or what??
At a cheap local guest house, I saw very nasty looking big spider in the toilet. There were enormous amount of cockroaches as well. I was almost passed out.
African toilet can make a good competition with Chinese toilet.

[2014/01/06 20:51 ] | Tanzania | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
First Pedaling 2014, イライラ走り初め
My first pedaling in this year was not good start.
The reason was that people, kids and adult both on my way were extremely beggars. They all said "Hey Give me money, money money!!" without greeting. It didn't matter weather or nor I was on a bicycle. They considered immediately a tourist as money. There were no hospitality at all. I felt really stress.


Tanzania is one of poorest countries in the world, especially its' poverty level of interior is higher than other part because of drought, disease such as HIV etc.. I was right there. I thought poverty caused fiscal attitude of people to the others.


However, I didn't mean all people were the same way. I could make general conversation with some people. At the local restaurants and shops, they mostly asked me decent prices.
I was very confused why. People think of me as money, but they still gave me honest price and never tried to rip me off.


The way of south from Dodoma, I passed through some serious drought areas. Baobab trees were still without leaves.


Many people came to a pump to get the fresh water. I sometimes stopped there to get drinking water. Those were drinkable for me though it was still muddy color.


Kids were sweet till stat saying "Money". One time, a teacher asked me money. I was deeply disappointed. This is Tanzania.


Woman at a local restaurant with a baby.

Woman making Ugari

Tanzanian women were not very frank as long as I felt. However, they were more honest and attentive than men.
In Africa, men were strongly dominated. Girls don't go to a school and help their parents at home. This is very common in country side, so it was very rear to find a woman to be able to speak English.

[2014/01/04 17:51 ] | Tanzania | Comments:(0) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
First three days of the new year, 三ヶ日の過ごし方
I did nothing special for the first three days of new year. Mostly stayed at my guest house and sometimes went out to see this town.
Dar es Salam is substantially the capital of Tanzania. Dodoma is the actual capital of Tanzania though there are not much things to see. It looks just regular country town. The market was good place to see.


Dodoma was a quite peaceful town. It was nothing like Nairobi and Arusha. I didn't feel any security problems.


There were many second hand goods from Japan in Tanzania. As I cycled and walked, I found many things from Japan.
Example, the mini buses are almost all from Japan.


This mini bus was used to be a bus for a kindergarden. For me, it looked so funny because many black people were in the kindergarden's bus.


This bus was used to be for a high school soccer club.
If the high school soccer team with "God is Great" bus came to a match, it would be so strange.

この写真のおっさんは大分西高校の生徒ではありません。このバスでサッカーの試合会場に現れたらみんな引くだろうな。God is Great って。。このフレーズは日本時代は無かった・・・と思いたい。

This was a ambulance for Osaka province.


Post office motor bike

Many people use second hand "mamachari" Japanese bicycle.


One of them still had a sticker of East Kusatu high school.


The guest house I stayed for 4 nights even though I got bed bugs. I was just very un-energetic to move out.


Greasing up bearings.

Today was the last day for resting. I will start cycling from tomorrow.

[2014/01/03 20:51 ] | Tanzania | Comments:(2) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
Happy New Year, 新年のご挨拶@ドドマ

Happy New Year All. I'm in Dodoma, the capital of Tanzania. I will update how I came here later so now just want to greet for the new year.


It's been almost 3 weeks since I came to east Africa, and I have been enjoying this part of Africa as well.
I arrived to Dodoma in a day before the new year. I thought I would have a good first dream on the bed in a cheap guest house that i checked in. However, I had bedbugs again and nightmare instead of the good dream, damn it....!!


I am trying to get all finished by this spring and hoping to go home by cherry trees blooming. I have no idea how cherry blossom front line will be in this spring. Hope it is a bit delayed.


My aim for this year is to go home safely and get back to normal life.
It will be difficult to find a job since I have 3 years blank, but that will be nothing compared to some difficulties I have gotten over so far in my journey.


Thank all for checking my update. I will keep updating by the time I finish everything.


Wish all the best for everyone, and have a wonderful the year 2014.

[2014/01/02 03:05 ] | Tanzania | Comments:(4) | Trackbacks:(0) | page top↑
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