Today, I received a good ? news. Seems the gun shooting has been stopped now; the troops opened the town. I saw many taxis going Khorog in this morning. All backpackers took off not to miss this chance.

今日になって前向きなニュース?が入った。どうやら銃撃戦は収まっているらしく、町や道路の封鎖は解除されたようだ。実際、朝からタクシーがホーログ方向に何台も出発して行っている。宿の旅行者なんかもこの機会を逃さんとばかりに全員ホーログ方向へ向かって行った。


So that, I decided to take off but not to Khorog. I will visit a hot-spring again because the distance to Khorog was too long to make in one day. On the way to Khorog, I should check the situation very carefully.
そんな事なんで自分も出発。この先は十分状況を把握しながら進まないといけない。ただ、ホーログまで1日じゃキツイ、急いでも夜町を通過するハメになりかねない。なんですぐにはホーログへは行かず、タジキスタン2回目となる温泉へと立ち寄る事にした。


In this time, I visited the place called Garmchashma, 70km from Ishkashim and 6km from main road.
今日寄ったのはイシュカシムから70キロ、6キロばかり本線を逸れた場所にあるガルム・チャシマなる場所。

The way to there, the valley became narrower. Panj river became more rough, and more easy to see Afghanistan side now.
イシュカシムを出ると、谷がかなり狭くなり、パンジ川も濁流となって流れている。アフガニスタン側も目視ではっきりと見える。






The kids have been very friendly. They suddenly start running towered me once they saw my bike and tried to talk.
タジクの子供。ウザいくらい人懐っこくて、自転車をみるなりかけ寄って来て、話しかけて来る。これはキルギスからずっと。






In Garmchashma, the first thing I saw was a big lime stone sculpture and smell of sulfur. I checked in a cheep hotel near hot-spring at first and then went to a spring.
ガルム・チャシマに到着するとまずデカイ石灰棚が目につき、硫黄の臭いがプンと鼻につく。まずは温泉目の前の安宿にチェックイン 30ソムニ。
さっそく温泉へ出かけた。




This spring remind me Kusatu hot spring in Japan; a lot of sulfur spring coming out. I went to a inside bath at first. They don't have time limit so i could relax more.
草津を思い出す。硫黄泉がガンガン出てる。まずは室内風呂。泉温 40度くらいで丁度良いし、時間制限無しだからゆっくりできる。








Then next was a bath outside. The bath was huge and full of big guys. There were about 50 of big Tajik guys without shade on their stuff. I couldn't take any photos because too many people looking at me.
そして露天。ここは千人風呂と言って良い程デカイ。あまりの光景に写真なんぞ撮る勇気が出ませんでした。多分50人はいて、ほぼ全員坊主頭、柔道でいう100キロ級がわんさかで、みんなチン○丸出し。

Most of them kept watching me but I went to the bath. Expectedly, I was surrounded by many big guys, and they asked me so many questions, like where are you from, where are you going, why you don't shave your under hair, etc.... It was kind of fun to communicate with such big Tajik guys in naked. Japanese call "Hadakano Tukiai" for going bathing with other naked people.
「何だこいつは」的な視線を一身に浴びながら突入。さっそく無数の野郎共に囲まれ、質問攻めにあう。「ナニ人」から始まり「何処に行くのか」「何でチ○毛を剃らないんだ」とかいろいろ。こんな男臭い温泉で、タジク人達と裸の付き合いができて、かなり楽しかった。


I enjoyed the hot spring where I went Wakhan Valley but this one was more fun. Also your skin will get very smooth.
前回の温泉も良いが、ここの露天のほうがオススメかな。お肌ツルツルになります。