Heading south by boat again. ILALA, the steam boat I took from North had run to Monkey Bay, a town in south shore of the lake, by the last year, but now has run only as far as Likoma island. Now, I had to transfer another boat to the south.

Nkhata Bay からさらにフェリーを乗り継いで南下する。去年まではILALA(ここに来る時使った蒸気船)が湖南部のMonkey Bayまで週一で運行していたらしいのだけれど、今はLikomaまでしか運行していない。マラウイ湖クルーズを上からの下までしたい場合は船を乗り換える必要がある。


より大きな地図で Cycling East Africa 1/2 を表示


It's a bit complicated. From Nkhata Bay, took ILALA again and went to Likoma island. Then, transferred to another boat called Chambo going to Metangula, a town in east shore of the lake, Mozambique. Stayed overnight at Metangula and came back to Senga Bay, Malawi side in the next day.

少しややこしいのだけれど、まずNkhata Bay からまたILALAに乗りLikoma island に行く、そこでChamboというモザンビークの船に乗り換えて、モザンビークのMetamguraに行き船で1泊、翌日1日かけてマラウイのSenga Bayまで行く。下の予定表と地図を見た方が分かりやすいかも。




Chambo stops Likoma every Sunday, picks up passengers and goes to Metangula eventually.
It stops many villages along the lake and runs till Chipoka, Malawi via Senga Bay.
This photo was taken by Hide-san who took this boat with me. We were transferring to Chambo at Likoma Island.

Chamboは毎週 日曜にLikomaに停泊して客を拾ってモザンビークのMetanguraまで行く。そして翌日月曜にMetamguraから途中数箇所モザンビークの村々に停泊しながらマラウイのSenga Bayに寄り、最終的にChipokaまで運行している。この写真はILALAから小舟でChamboに乗り換える時。一緒に乗った日本人のヒデさんに撮ってもらった。


When we got to Likoma, Chambo had been already left. The operator of ILALA called Chambo, and it was turned back to Likoma.
Even though both ships are operated by same company, they don't share operations. This is African service.

Likomaに着いた時、既にChamboは出港してしまっていて、ILALAの人が無線で呼び戻してくれた。同じ会社が運行しているのに全く情報が共有できていない。アフリカなんで仕方ないのだけれど。


We were brought to Chambo, and it left to Mozambique. This boat was quite new but really small.

戻って来たChamboに乗り込み対岸のモザンビーク側に向かった。こっちの船は新しいけど、かなり小さい。




The beach in Mozambique side was even prettier. Chambo moves slowly and stops many different local villages with baobab trees.

モザンビーク側に行くと、さらに綺麗な砂浜が広がっていて、バオバブが目立つ素朴な村々を経由してゆっくりゆっくり船は進んで行く。



People speaks Portuguese in Mozambique. An immigration officer and operators of Chambo had been speaking in Portuguese, though They don't really speak English.

モザンビークはポルトガル語圏。入国審査官や船の乗組員がポルトガル語で喋っていた。英語はあまり通じない。



I was wondering if I needed a visa for Mozambique because Japanese citizen was required the visa to entry. However, we were just on the boat and wouldn't get off in Mozambique side. I thought we wouldn't need.
What I guessed was true, but the immigration officer at Likoma island has stamped on my passport even though I explained. It was actually not really problem when we came back to Malawi side, but I hope it doesn't cause any problem when I leave this country.


ここで悩んでいたのがモザンビークのビザが必要かどうか。モザンビークはビザの事前取得が必要。自分はビザを持って無い。ただ、モザンビーク側を船で進むだけで降りなければビザは必要無いのではと考えていた。結果的に自分の考えは当たっていた。ところがアホなマラウイ側の係官がこちらが説明したのにも関わらず、確認もせずにチャッチャとパスポートに出国スタンプを押されてしまった。再度マラウイに入国した際には特に問題にはならなかったのだけれど、出国の時にまた問題にならなければ良いのだけれど。



After over night at Metangula, I arrived to Senga Bay.
Chambo is normally stopped in the beach and dropped some passengers. It was really hard work to get off with a bicycle and other bags though it was really fun.

そんなこんなで1泊2日の後、Senga Bay に到着した。ChamboはMetangura以外毎回砂浜に接岸するのだけれど、荷物を降ろすのがかなり大変だった(結構面白かったけど)。腰上まで浸かって荷物を数回に分けて岸に運 ぶ。





So many people have came to the beach to see what was going on. When I was working on my luggage, more then 100 people had been looking at what I was doing. If I was not with Hide, it would be very difficult.

すごい数の群衆(自分が荷物を降ろす時、軽く100人は浜に見に来ていた)が見つめる中、パンツ一丁で降ろしきった。正直、ヒデさんが一緒にいなかっらかなり大変だったと思う。



My Malawi lake cruise was really successful and fun, but it was a bit pricy.

今回のマラウイ湖クルーズ、よくよく計算してみたら案外金が掛かった。Chilumbaからの内訳はこんな感じ。

Every Thursday, 木曜発着
Chilumba - Nkhata Bay; 5050MK, by ILALA


Every Sunday, 日曜発着
Nkhata Bay - Likoma; 2900MK, by ILALA


Every Sunday, 日曜発着
Likoma - Metangura; 4000MK+bicycle3150MK, by Chambo


Every Monday, 月曜発着
Metangura - Senga Bay; 4000MK+bicycle 3500MK, by Chambo




About $52 total. The cost of bicycle was surprisingly expensive.

計22600MK 約5500円。自転車代が案外高くついている。まぁ湖は堪能できたし楽しかったんで良しとします。